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really? LOL What car was that on?

the rats nest gives me "the fear" like I thought only auto gearbox internals could

I'd just buy the minty fresh exclusive for £3k TBH (I would if i had the cash)

dont know. he said he might do that ages ago, but no idea anymore

he still owns it

some people weld the circlip in. I probably wouldn't

diff circlip. gonna cost you

there's loads of info, but basically a cup packed 182 is fully spec'd, a 182 cup just has crap seats and bad headlights, and a few other weight savings (not as much as a 172 cup)

look at the bits you're trying to bolt together, you'll see why. It's angled underneath, you dont get it bolted up tight like that

Looked at Coops mk1 with grip tape in it yesterday, works brilliantly

I'd expect to add 1-1.5 hours to change the PAS pump at the same time. There's quite a bit of bracketry and it's a messy job. The water pump assessible whilst doing the cambelt.

WHAT???? i've never seen that after using many many sets of non "standard spec" plugs. Only possible reason for that I can think of would be using non resistor plugs. Rough running in most cases is down to using the wrong spec or a s**t make like champion, and people who dont understand...

the bit where the upper mount bolts to the pulley cover just needs a spacer with an angle cut on it then bolt it together. the lower part of the pulley cover needs a bracket attaching that also bolts to the front of the head. A piece of angle iron with holes cut in the right place and a couple...

got no pics, and it'd be a measure, cut, try, repeat process to make it. Could do, dont have a workshop of my own though and you're FAR

so who was faster round Bedford then? ;) with a passenger....and pagid blues :dead: FWIW I like 4-pots, but it has to be a pretty modded car driven pretty hard. I do like the fact they give more even disc wear also

you need an angled spacer. Also you really need to re-enforce where the bolt that would go into the lower inlet is now missing. I've made up brackets to take up this play, but they're always 1 off

same. I leave the rack hanging

oh that EPIC bodge LOL. TBH used parts......really not the way to go

what makes you think it's "gone" if it's knocking, i'll bet your manifold to downpipe gasket is worn away

front hub nuts

You have a couple of options. I prefer to fully remove the subframe when there's a ramp available just because you have such a lot more access. Some drop the subframe a long way down on 1 side, never tried that one myself. Pulling the engine out the top with the box still attached is another...

do this. It's still a tosser for the person underneath though

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-CLIO-2-0LTR-16V-172-CUP-RALLY-PREP-PROJECT-MOT_W0QQitemZ140339818069QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item20ace7ae55&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 not that one was it?

your TPS is fitted wrong. you should have the plate that's on the outside, on the inside, the big hole in it centers the TPS

you 100% need a new gasket

you're getting standalone already. it's not an issue, you'll only use stock ecu to run the rev counter and temp gauge buy a pedal , make a bracket (it bolts on different) buy a throttle cable. done

this has got to be clone accounts surely? someone different every day plugging bbtuning low boost turbo kits

pretty sure cup and Ph1 box are same, ph2 non cup is very slightly longer final drive

I did LOADS of miles in that car, it was much better than that. Anything will use more fuel when you hammer it

I've seen ITBs give standard economy