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if it's not been changed before i'd get a gasket kit. rare to see a car come in that couldn't do with a new gasket. Sometimes they're so bad they cause a knock that people thing is engine mounts

shockingly, greenstuff are green, redstuff and red, and yellowstuff are yellow. ;) sounds like you have an ordinary set of pattern pads from a normal motor factor :)

careful with that, M10 studding isn't high tensile (there's no such thing available) Should be able to find a long bolt with thread along it's entire length then cut the head off, headbolt for something seems a likely place to start

box is 35kg give or take

either will go you fine, with some to spare. Not weighed one, but i can't see it being over 150kg with everything bolted on (AC, exhaust manifold etc)

I saw that in Hyltons renault last week when i walked across to collect some parts

I dont think it is, the inlet wont get warm in the same way the stock stuff does by being bolted to the top of the engine.

very different though, not interchangeable

F7R was in the megane too, but with a different head :) F4R was in other stuff but not as performance oriented (laguna etc)

both great IMO, I like the F7R a lot, I'm a fan of cam-on-bucket heads generally as rocker arms dont fill me with confidence, but the F4R rockers seem reliable generally. The F7R is harder to work on IMO but mostly because of space, so it's vehicle dependent. The F7R requires a lot of special...

we did work out the cost factor a quite a while back. one method is quite labour and skill intensive and the other has a greater outlay on parts initially but is easier overall. Throttle bodies have the jump on the stock plenum because of the extra torque they make EVERYWHERE in the rev range

a lot of people want reversible mods, most can't stretch to the cost of headwork and cams in one hit, and the ports are fairly reasonable (certainly a huge amount better than production items were. going back a few years. :)

I know exactly what ITBs can do, and I know exactly what the standard inlet is capable of. Your generated data is inacurate, or inacurately interpreted. There's more to tuning than motorsport too. This isn't productive and i'll leave it there

Be good to bring a couple of GDI cars to this now we're only a few minutes away :) will have to confirm later

no not really, but slightly larger with a proper belmouth we've seen to give better response and great torque

wasn't stock internals, but you sited the manifold as being the limiting factor when it's not. high comp, headwork and 422s with matched manifolds and a jenvey 65mm TB. A few extra bits but for 20bhp more than you're saying is possible, I dont think it's an issue

any 172/182 sump. There should be someone on here with a blown up one that can sort you for a few quid

some nice cars. Love aircooled dubs :) got a soft spot for a monaco 172 aswell. Very smart

sounds a big chunk of cash, but i've seen people w**k away more on small bits that do much less and achieve hardly anything

stock Coilpack and leads are excellent quality. I wouldn't try to use anything else really

for an exhaust fabrication place it's straightforward, at home it's harder but depends on your skill. As your asking I'd say pay to have it done

patently untrue. We've seen 210 quite recently on a pesamistic dyno

I wouldn't use hermetite for anything ever personally. But i would use a very light smear of sealer on the waterpump gasket surfaces as it'd be a pain if it leaked

TPS based for load rather than map sensor

Doesn't sound right, There's plenty being used on daily driven cars in a very reliable manner. The drive is so much nicer than the wanky FBW crap too. Yours is noisy because it's stripped out. They're no worse than a big exhaust on a standard car IMO

you really want a 48-42.5 taper body with 45 butterfly on a stock internals F4R. And yes there's a lot of bits and pieces you need. All included in our kit :)

fan is controlled by Omex on your car I believe. Just modding the stock wiring would be the simplest way

that'll be CRAZY loud. I've run a car with a no silencer 2.5 inch system for a while and it was like an earthquake every time you start the engine

look in the larger supermarkets. I got a new one today from Sainsburys for under £300. The spec is better than PCworld/Currys were doing for £400. You'll get a web-book for around £200-£250 if you dont want much hard disk space, but be prepared for a small screen and no cd drive

wont advance the cam on revving until it's warm though