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I'd fit pressed grass pads before greenstuff.

the 2 products are so far apart there's no comparison. Mintex each and every time.

didn't you say yours is a 1.2 16v? just a belt in that case possibly the easiest cambelt to change EVER

seen that happen to a 1991 200sx :eek:

Gates - OEM to Renault Dayco - OEM to VW Veco - Various re-boxed quality parts, last veco belt i got was a dayco Quinton Hazell - Very good quality FAI - Good quality I'd use a belt from any of the above without hesitation

FAI are OK, wouldn't use their headgaskets, but the rest seems fine normally Think they're based in Leighton Buzzard lol

KIT is the keyword ;) :)

now THAT has to be just a belt, no way you can get everything for that.

if it's a complete kit then bargain. Retail is about £120

that'll be a belt on it's own

Belts are fine, no idea on the tensioners and idlers, i'm not sure who makes them for FAI (could be the same as a gates/renault kit, but dont know without looking)

if you buy genuine, you will get the same parts in a different box. Gates are THE best IMO. I'd choose them over anything else on any engine if available

WTF? that's very practical isn't it :rolleyes: On the jenvey manifold there is a boss cast into the underside of each inlet. You have to drill and tap for vac fittings. We've tried a couple of different ways of fitting and found that taking vac from 2 ports gives the same pedal feel as...

Gates make belts for Renault

slam panel has to go to use 90mm trumpets, without major mods to the supplied parts

100% correct. see a lot that are very worn and there's very little gap

fully inclusive of all parts you need, including the Omex 600 ECU and clio specific race-loom, with a fitting manual.

not the workmanship, it's the materials. stainless on the backboxes is like fag paper, and the pipe rusts like it's sat in the atlantic

probably a corroded earth

take the advice of someone who's worked at a powerflow branch, dont do it

50p says fluid in the PAS will quiet it down ;)

it doesn't always need doing, but it's pretty easy to tell. We carry one for the occasion it needs doing

it's a 2 hour job for someone who's done it before :)

had quite a few enquiries about doing things, several people disappointed with their new car feeling very flat unless they give it hell and considering going back to a 1*2

I recon the tensioner has gone overcenter and the pivot mechanism has corroded and is sticky so not auto-tensioning as it should. Ideally a new tensioner needed in this case, but it is repairable

OMG 510 p**n

9.8:1

sure it wasn't the PAS pump that was loose?

proper diagnostic tool with give you a mV output. you do need to know what's the right numbers though. cycling between 0-1v is correct. post-cat sensor effects nothing but the light on the dash, if in doubt, swap the 2 sensors on a temporary basis. if your economy improves you've located the...

175? you told me 150 the other day :S 175 is a bit low but not "that" bad. Any idea if there was any hot and cold difference on the compression test?