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no wont work

should just be a case of different adapter brackets

I like this idea :) nice to see someone doing it their own way I dont think you'll get worthwhile management for £500 though. Modern renault ECUs have a degree of self learning and seem to re-adjust themselves if you use piggyback management (like the Greddy E-manage). Going from NA to forced...

sweet jesus my eyes

8mm square drive to remove the drain plug, about £7 for the tool from halfords the fuel rail guard is the part on the front you are talking about, it's simple to remove, there are 2 nuts in deep holes on the front so you'll need a deep 10mm socket to remove them

you can still use standard rings if you hone the bores, just a simple glaze bust with a bobble hone tool at least is the minimum you should be doing. it removes minimal material, but if you dont do it the rings wont bed in anything like as quickly. would be a silly mistake not to do it IMO

the plug for the crank locking hole is next to the dipstick tube. there's also a gap in the gearbox bellhousing where you can see the flywheel and there is a mark on the box and the fly you need to line up for accurate TBH alignment. just using the hole can still give a little variation in my...

5 GT turbo coilovers fit ;) I think the problem with the 172 wheels was the ofset, the track was pretty wide with them on

172 wheels make a mk1 handle like a sack TBH. Bex had them on her rsi a couple of years back. rubbed like buggery as well IIRC. 15s are the way forward and drop it HARD

hence "might"

no real difference. You might have gained an RS lower manifold if you're lucky though

the ones I've worked on have had a solid pipe (think it's part of the K-tec kit) You'll also need to lose a lot of the brackets and bracing around the battery tray. I'd lay the ECU flat on the battery tray I think, will give you a massive amount more space, like we've done on our car :)

I did an aux belt on friday and once i had it off the owner asked me what condition it was in, so i bent it back on itself and showed him the extensive cracking and how dry it was. It had done 36k almost exactly and is on a 55 plate. it definitely NEEDED to be done My personal opinion is to do...

where's the air filter sitting? the 2 I've worked on have had NO room anywhere but where the battery would have been for the filter once the pipes are in but i can't see it there. Oh and dont forget the vac pipe that goes onto the FPR, it's important on a turbo :)

I'd need to buy one first lol, but i think i'd go for a Ph1 172 in black, drop it like it's hot with AST coilovers, williams wheels in sparkle silver, Cobra Recliners and mod the steering column to get it lower and improve the driving position and do a non-PAS conversion. Rotrex supercharger on...

JESUS!!!!!!!!! you could take maybe a laquer run or a little orange peel and some filler sink/feathering as it's a cheap job. I dont understand how anyone could do it THAT badly though.

The way I see it, as a general rule the bigger the sub is the deeper the bass is, 10s are great for fast hard dance with really punchy bass, 12s are great for all round stuff and are probably the most flexible for listening to all kinds of music, and a 15 is good for heavy, deep rolling...

we do one http://www.greydevilindustries.com/products/product.asp?id=20595

probably the primary lambda sensor

Yes, quite aware of how an omex works lol, I fit them. Overfueling on overrun isn't right, I promise you. By retarding the ignition on overrun you raise EGTs which gets the exhaust hot, that's where the pops and bangs come from. By overfueling you're just cooling down the exhaust gasses...

probably a bad electical connection on the battery or similar

renault clutches are a bit heavier than some more modern systems, IMO it's because they use a cable still and havn't gone to hydraulic. Man up TBH

http://www.greydevilindustries.com/

an air leak in the exhaust will throw the CO readings way off

sounds very much like it to me

http://www.retrotuckshopsweetsdirect.co.uk/images/freddo.jpg freddosport ;)

looks spot on. remember to put the piston on the effected cylinder at the top, put plenty of grease on the tap (to catch swarf) and turn the engine over with no plugs in to blow any bits of swarf out before fitting the new insert :)

if i recall correctly to be honest it's not a thread size i've had to remember too often.

M14x1.25 IIRC

http://www.timesert.com/ the right way to do it