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I'll try and get one tomorrow. Not sure we have a ph1 rail about the place actually

the rail is essentially the same, but there is a return line on the gearbox end, and the FPR is in the mounded part, with the hole unblocked

you NEED the look for holding the pulleys (MOT1509). If you dont use it you WILL turn the cam (and possibly break the locating slots as they're not strong) and throw the timing out

rare to not run a filter TBH. a lot of people take the filters off for photos though ;) nice shiny trumpets look cool

nope, it's ignition r****d. overfueling will just give you black smoke. you actually pull fuel out and r****d ignition in the overrun area to make bigger pops

fairly sure they're fastchips actually

loads of them snap, have to put new clips on 1 in 3 cars that come in for service due to the originals breaking

it's just about barely possible with the exhaust manifold on, but it's a massive t**t to do, and putting the heatshield back on......well it angered me

60mm butterfly I believe

you're talking about a baffled tailpipe. Any custom place should be able to sort it but it may involve a pair of new tailpipes to get a perfect match

as per your other thread, your cam timing sounds to be incorrect

lol, just no. the accoustic valve doesn't have anything to do with fast idle, that's actuated by the throttle body (on the ph2). Accoustic valve is just a noise limiting device

pretty sure Chris will have been at santa pod, there's a very big drag meet there this weekend

it's not ignition timing you need to be concerned with, it's the mechanical timing of the cams and crank. It's quite commonly done wrong

got to agree with that TBH, it's a made up term anyway lol

sounds like the studs they go onto aren't tight enough.

not to my knowledge, sure you could find something if you paid enough money, but it's just not needed. money better spent elsewhere for some real gains :)

HKS controllers are a lot more complicated to setup, not keen. Apexi AVC-R is the most over complicated piece of kit I've ever had the displeasure of losing my mind trying to work.

guff

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JDM-Trust-Greddy-Profec-B-boost-controller-evc-200sx_W0QQitemZ180256236725QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180256236725&_trkparms=72%3A1301|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 buy that Steve, I run one exactly the same in my 200sx and I've fitted and set-up a lot...

proper hoot to drive on track it is too!!!

you can mod the ph2 rail by drilling out a couple of holes. The regulator bracket is all there still

I think you're in the right sort of area. You'd need to negotiate that with higher powers ;)

sounds like you're after a decent amount doing, there's always a saving if you do things in combinations. Cams at same time as cambelt for example.

172 and 182 standard manifolds are very good out the box

Our 172/182 ITB kit is already available :) it's the 197 kit that's in development you can do it either way round, but probably doing the bodies and ECU then upgrade to cams and do a re-map is the most logical if you know you'll do both. There's other options though, best to give us a call...

cup setup is different, no tensioner to change. could be water pump or maybe alternator making a noise, very hard to say without seeing it.

there's probably a tiny "from" on the poster if you get up close

Dont think you'll notice a difference between a 172 and 182 manifold until you've done quite a bit to engine internals. Only really worth changing if the engine is out or significantly apart for other work IMHO. The magnex system is ok, and sounds nice enough. Not keen on the look of it myself...

you get a tensioner and pulley with the kit. It's not necessary most of the time, but we keep one on the shelf just in case