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Well there’s 2 ways to tell if the diff is ready for a service:
Your car no longer wants to put a set of 11’s down when you drop the clutch.
You raise the nsf off the ground and put a torque wrench on the hub nut. With the torque wrench set to 60nm, if the torque wrench clicks off, it’s fine...
Grippers are at their best in race cars/track cars, but they can be used in road cars too. It just means choosing different ramp angles and preload settings to get the most life out of them really. But they do require servicing once the preload has dropped below a certain amount.
The ramp...
Hello folks,
Just wanted to reach out to you all and let you know I can supply Gripper Diffs cheaper than pretty much anyone else, and not just for the Clio!
Whatever they list on the website, I can sort out supplying. 👍🏻
You guys know my reputation, and I’ve lost count of how many I’ve...
I think the reason they’re failing is due to age mate tbh. Many heat cycles have gone through those clutch guide tubes now.
As above, single mass flywheel not dual.
Regards the flywheel, if there’s no significant grooves in it, or cracks that you can fit your finger nail in, just clean it up...
That’s the 3rd guid tube in almost as many weeks that’s fucked like that.
Best advise is don’t skim the flywheel either. They don’t respond well to that and it makes them a potential point of failure - especially if they take too much meat off.
You need to be careful that you don’t damage the seat of the bleed nipple in the caliper, otherwise it’ll never seal.
What caliper is it on? A blue bmw caliper by any chance?
The alarm switch for the bonnet used to be an area of issues for setting the alarm off, but the alarm itself is an after thought on many clios, so you may find that the alarm itself is the key issue.
You’ve got a battery drain on there which could also be setting the alarm off. You need to...
No problem mate. I was that pissed off when I found out it was the throttle body on mine, I priced up a new one from Renault. Wasn’t as expensive as you’d think!
Well I think plan of attack needs to be:
Check for leaks on the inlet
Swap out the throttle body
Gut feel though says the throttle body could be the root cause. If you can calibrate the ecu to run off track 2 on the throttle body, you should see a difference. That’s what was done on mine to...
Well the air leak is always a good shout, but I would expect it to idle higher from the get go. Worth spraying some brake cleaner around the inlet manifold area though to see if it raises the idle speed - obviously not spraying it near the turbo lol!
Have you let it get up to temp? If so, does...
It could be that the lambda isn’t seeing what it thinks it should be seeing after a throttle blip, so it’s trying to correct itself. The map will be saying I will see x amount of air/fuel at x throttle position. It could be getting the fuel, but not the air, so it would run rich
But I also do...
There’s a possibility that the valve springs being stiffer aren’t opening the valves as far - this is based on the hydraulic lifters being put under more load from the stiffer springs.
The f4r doesn’t have good oil pressure from experience, so it could be the lifters not holding up to the...
If you press the original dogbone bush out, rotate it 90 degrees and refit it into the dog bone, you get 90% of the benefits of a poly bush with 0% of the NVH.