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I’d imagine you’ve broken it because you’re using the torque on track rather than the revs. I’ve seen jc5’s running more power and torque than you have without issue - because they’ve used the revs. But when it’s easy to use the torque from a boosted motor, I totally get the reason why people do.

What crank are you using? They get a bit of a wobble on and pick up the bearing. After that it’s game over. Crap oil pressure will also not be helping. What hot oil pressure do you have at idle?

Yes you can. But a lot of people send them to sadev for servicing as well for whatever reason.

Just to put some information out there regarding sadev sequentials and also dog boxes, they generally aren’t that bad. But it’s worth noting that to drive a dog box is an extremely different experience to pretty much any other gearbox! With a dog box, you use the clutch to pull away. Then...

Well you could always try it? Assuming you don’t mind the cost of mapping it twice? I genuinely don’t know how it’s gonna work out as is. Don’t get 421’s though if you do swap the cams as they also don’t work on hi comp lol

197 injectors will work best. But who told you to run Grp n cam timing with hi comp? I’m not sure how that’s gonna work out tbh. The idea behind Grp n cam timing is to alter the dynamic compression ratio to get the most out of the standard engine.

Now that’s more like it! 😂

A* for effort there. 😂😂

I haven’t…….but I let it slide 😂😂

It’s not something I’ve heard of before mate with it losing power.

Start simple and replace the speedo drive sensor that’s on the gearbox. It’s the usual culprit for this fault, as it’s a mechanically driven electronic sensor.

I’ll send over some pictures tomorrow mate as I should be building it then 👍🏻

My test fit was bang on. No adjustments required. 😎

Well he did you a favour not fitting that tbh as it will kill the box quicker than anything else! But I agree, maybe you do need to go and knock the s**t out of him and then move on with your life mate. All of this is fixable though mate, and personally, I think you’d kick yourself if you...

I think it’s a linkage adjustment issue personally.

What shifter you running?

Easy fix. How longs it been doing that?

It’s a fixable problem mate. If we weren’t miles apart, I’d sort it for you as it really won’t be difficult. It’s drawing air into the system from somewhere. What’s the issue with the box? Diff to aggressive? That’s another fixable problem.

Any decent piston manufacturer can get around the issue of 2 piston rings. You just have a blanking piece that fits in over the gudgeon pin so you can run 3 rings. Seen it done and it works.

You’re only going to be arguing it with yourself mate lol No worries 👍🏻

A gearbox is more expensive than a Sachs clutch as well if that helps? So £100 valeo vs £££’s for the gearbox you need to replace because the £100 valeo s**t it’s pants.

Yes mate I bought the Milwaukee one. Good bit of kit tbf!

That to me sounds very much like normal now. The jc5 is known to chatter the gears at idle as well, albeit the noise originally posted was significantly louder than that.

Bacon, I ran ds1.11’s up front and ds2500’s in the rear on my mk2 cup and mk3 200. It was 100% the most powerful braking setup I have ever experienced on a car. But I have also ran ds2500’s all round on the mk2 cup, and that was impressive too tbf. Never had any fade issues on track - no brake...

Yeah should just bolt up to the back of the block

yeah they all had the same wishbone then except the 172 cup. I think the 182’s had cup spec wishbones as well, but as they’re NLA it makes no odds lol Nah ph1 subframe is narrower than the ph2’s mate. But only where the wishbones bolt up.

Yes mate. Assuming we are talking ph1 172 here?

172 cup had different wishbones to increase castor, but you can’t get them anymore, but other than that, yes the same.

Subframes?