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Check the white plug in the engine bay fuse box. Terminals in the plug can corrode and cause problems.

Fit the cover without sealant and tighten all the bolts down. Try and turn the cams. If they turn then happy days. If they don’t - try and find another cam cover. They’re matched from the factory in terms of the line bore for the cam journals, so in theory they shouldn’t be swapped. But it can...

Yeah not ideal. A favourite of mine is when people reseal them with about 10 foot of rtv and then wonder why it’s clogging oil ways up. 😂

To bleed mine up I just kept putting my mouth over the lip on the header tank and blowing into it. But, you’ve got to be quick when you’re letting the pressure off as you could end up with a mouthful of coolant. It’ll bubble and gurgle as the air comes out and the coolant level will drop.

Could be the cam cover leaking as well. If it is, it’s a cambelt job as the cover is integral for holding the cams in place.

£280 for me to replace the synchros on 3rd and 4th. But the box would need to be removed and brought over to me. That’s parts and labour included.

Does the expensive headset keep dropping out still? Or has it fixed itself now? 😂

The ones I have personally used are Mahle with the tags. Yeah I think they’re softer than the likes of ACL, but they’re definitely not softer than OE items mate. Well they probably w**k over them because folklore dictates that bmw got the clearances wrong on the S54 which is why the rod...

Are you sure it wasn’t a spicy floor?

Get the pec rods checked for ovality mate. They’re quite often not the best. Check the gudgeon pin clearance measured as well - again another area that’s not the best. I will only use Saenz rods, or custom made rods in the f4r builds I do now.

I’ve seen more engines fail with ‘race’ spec bearings fitted than I care to remember. They do have increased clearance on them, but that’s because they’re hard. Once scuff and you’re on the way to engine failure. On the R3 maxi engine I built for myself, I used standard mahle bearings. Still...

They do mate.

They’re all the same mate in the 1*2 and 197/200. Make sure you definitely use INA ones as well.

Stack dash. Ces’t fin.

You need to send an email to: allan@bridgecraftmotorsport.co.uk I am no longer involved with supplying them as it just took up too much of my time. Tell him I sent you and he will look after you 👍🏻

Only set available that’s NEVER failed.

It was, without doubt the best era for BTCC. Good old chavaliers, E36’s, Alfas etc that looked pretty much the same as what you could buy in the show room! IIRC the Nissans and Laguna’s were the only true 300hp+ n/a power units as well.

f**k and off spring to mind. 😂😂

@Tom Johnson can you a proper cage for this mate. He is fulcrum motorsport.

Yeah we are using some of those on @Tom Johnson ’s race engine

That’s how mine was yeah. Just retained the semi sequential on the coil on plug. The cam sensor is mainly there to run the fully variable vvt that the mk3 runs.

Ok, so this is PIN numbers you need to use on the Gen90 to run the camshaft sensor - as per 197 head conversion that I ran. There are also 2 different cam sensors between the 197 and the 200. The following information is suited to the 197 cam sensor. The 200 sensor pin outs may be the same, but...

It’s all about the plenum volume mate. You have to remember that when you crack the throttle open, all the air in that airbox will be consumed within an instant. If there’s not enough there to feed the motor you lose response until it has the air it needs. Also, you need to allow space for the...

Man and up are definitely springing to mind at this moment in time. 🤭😂

It’s coming mate. Rest assured 😎 Oh and for those of you looking at this - consider the volume of the airbox. Then look at the Tessa or rs2 manifold. Significantly less volume

I can’t see any reason why it won’t mate tbh

As I said on the phone mate, looks fuckin epic!

I’ll deop you a pm mate 👍🏻

Well before you decide to sell up, there’s a few things to try first 👍🏻 Checking leads/plugs/coilpack is easy enough to check. Next one is how old are the injectors? Worth remembering that essentially it’s all just old s**t now if it’s the original items. Drop me a WhatsApp if you need a bit...

Sorry mate - busy few days! Well yeah that’s not sounding very good in that 2nd video. Can definitely hear a continuous thud when you’re coasting. It sounds like it’s got some internal issues I’m afraid.