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If it's a race car you want upwards of 500lb springs up front mate. Regarding the rear, it's a lever, so your 500lb rears will work out to be the opposite way around to what you're thinking due to the lever ratio. The wheel would only actually 'see' around the 350lb region. You're going to...

This. Check the rear dampers aren't fucked and get the alignment checked to see where everything is at. Post the results of the alignment and we can take it from there.

That colour just works so well with mondial blue mate! I approve. Lol

So it's D Day in more ways than one then Pete! I hope you get a successful outcome mate. :up:

No put it in dry mate

Study how the seal sits in the block before you remove it and you'll see it appears to sit in at the bottom further than the top. This is because the block isn't square with the end of the crank. If you fit the new one in the same position as the old one, you'll have no leaks. If you don't...

You can't unless you've still got the edit button available mate. Let me know if you want me to remove the pic and the writing mate so you can add it back in with a new post.

Well yeah there is that I suppose. 😂

Well you've got balls Phil I'll give you that! Lol! That shell looks like it's in really good condition for a mk1!

I may be up for this as well mate. :up:

Reminds me of my first cup with the anthracite turinis and climate control. Looks a properly nice car mate. :up:

Great news mate! At least you can drive it again without skipping a gear! As others have said, no need to apologise! And trust me, others have asked things that are far simpler than a gear selection issue! Lol!

Sounds to me like the spring clip in the selector hub has failed and is stopping you selecting a gear. Easy fix with the box out tbf, but it depends on what you find when you open them up. Search my name and you'll see I know quite a lot about the good old jc5!! Lol

So come on then, spill the beans! What's your company mate? I'm genuinely interested if you're happy to tell us. :up: Top work as always mate. :cool:

Yes very true. I have access to one at work and also have one at home in the garage. Yeah the cup packed 182's have a larger bearing mate.

The 172 54mm hubs are actually nicer to to remove the bearings out of compared to the 182 60mm hubs. I don't think there is a great deal mentioned about changing them as most people just take them to a garage tbh mate. The welding tip is a bit of a trick of the trade tbh. It's also the way I...

I always press the drive flange out, knock the remains of the bearing out the race and run a bead of weld inside the race. This causes it to shrink and you can then knock them out with a hammer and punch. The hubs are actually quite flimsy and will bend if you apply too much pressure and...

I've only ever bought 1 shim kit per shaft and one for the diff mate.

They do a shim kit for the input shaft and the mainshaft mate. They also do one for the diff. I couldn't tell you if there's a 1.22mm thick shim in there, but I imagine it would be.

There's a variety of different size shims in that kit to add preload to the shaft/bearings mate

The wetter the better too! 😂

Yeah pretty much mate. He's had some bad press tbh, but I had no issues with the kit I had. I'll see what I can do.

I could see if we can get a deal with reyland? I ran his bell and rotor setup on my cup and they were awesome.

Yeah it's good oil mate.

Oil and cooling is the most important factor to keeping them alive mate.

Yeah. How long they'll last they I don't know.

Yeah but the TL4 is equally as crap mate tbf. What the lord gives in one hand, he takes away with the other! Flol

About £670 ish mate, possibly a tad more.

What a b*****d eh. Lol! I've got a TL4 to build one into as well. 😂

Looks great mate! I'll have to try and get over to one of the West Midlands meets and show my face and put a few usernames to faces!