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My mates used to see around 36-42 on a run. You just need to get a standalone ecu and have someone who will run it lean until it starts to det, then bring it back a notch. That's obviously at a cruising speed though!! 70-80mph is where his was mapped to be über economical.

@bashracing flol

They're m12x1.25 and I think around 25mm long. In that pitch you'll only get high tensile anyway.

Lol no mate. They're bolted through the subframe!

You need to remove the aluminium brackets off the subframe mate as they're not required.

On a serious note @bashracing i may need some vetinary advice off your good lady shortly for the dog. I'll text you next week when I know more. :up:

Flol! They've already seen it!

:hearteyes: you love it really! Lol

Indeed it is! Lol! That's calculations in full swing right there.

They're surprisingly strong mate! Mine is fully removeable as well. Loads easier Oh and I've edited accordingly. Lol

A real man would've put it on 4 bonnets pins! :wink:

I'll settle for a white one. Paint the shaft green! Lol

Would you not be better off swapping it out for a different one Tony? It may require a change of the wiring and recalibration in the ecu, but only small fry in the grand scheme of things. Have you looked on euro car parts for a tps? Or eBay maybe?

Checked the superleggeras for clearance this afternoon. Needless to say, it's close!! I can't fit the steel ruler between the spokes and the the caliper all the way down, but the caliper does clear the spokes and the wheel turns. Happy. Days. Not sure how brave I'm feeling though yet, so I...

Ordering mine next week! 🙈

Wonder why? Lol!

You need to do some very good measuring for a start and if I were you go with 300mm discs. Then it's a case of getting in contact with Martin at Reyland. Be aware though, once you've given him the dimensions and he's made them, they're yours. If they're wrong because you measured it wrong...

Between the pad material and the bell there's 3mm+ and now I've measured correctly 1mm+ between the pad backing and the bell. The measurement I stated in the post you've quoted wasn't very clear for where I was meaning tbf. To gain more clearance I've got some .5mm shims if required and I can...

Thanks!

It's not a true fix mate. Some work, some don't.

Not that's reliable mate.

Always have a plan mate. Lol! Yeah it'll do some uk days mate for sure. :up: Lol sorry mate!

I have a plan for the shifter rattle mate. There will be none of that in my car! It's a refined track car!! Yeah it'll soon become the norm mate.

Exactly mate. Come to far to start doing any of that. I'm pretty sure it'll be going to efi, but still not 100% decided yet. Happy days mate. The nylon know looks well too! I'm ordering a pms shifter next week I think.

Lol!! I'm impressed mate!!

Thanks mate! :up:

Yeah it's well on its way now mate! Lol it'll not be mapped in April!

Yeah I'm very happy with them! I have a grinder. Lol

If you run atf in a jc5 box it will ruin all the remaining synchros. It's f**king awful stuff. I know because I've had the misfortune of rebuilding one that was running on atf. A rebuild is THE only option as stated above.

It's either leaking from the selector shaft seal (the normal place) or it's the casing join that's leaking. To fix them properly both require a gearbox strip down.