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Mine. Nice unmolested 172 cup. Lol

Lol! Tbh a lot of f4r builds are pretty much hit and miss as to if they'll survive or not from what I see mate. If you know the areas to focus on though, your chances of success are substantially improved.

I can confirm 100% that the brembos will fit behind cup turinis without spacers on 300mm discs. You'll not be able to run wheel weights on the inside of the wheel though.

Ktec don't build their own motors anymore mate due to far too many failures. They get them done by a very well respected motorsport company now. I'm unfortunately not at liberty to say who though, but I'd definitely have one of their engines. I'd just take it elsewhere for mapping!

Nothing to update mate I'm afraid. Still in the same position it was when I last looked at it in the garage. It'll be staying that way for the foreseeable future.

Good luck! Be good to have a catch up though mate.

No not a chance mate.

Great minds and all that! Lol

I'd say it's a combination of things as to why it's using oil mate. The most common being cracked ring lands on the pistons. It could also be that the valve guides are worn, so I think you may be fighting a losing battle.

It's a shame you didn't opt to smooth over the area where the 3rd brake light is mate, as without the light there it just looks a bit weird if that makes sense? I like the embossed logo though mate, nice touch! :up:

No not kidding mate. It's quite easy to lose interest in these things when you've been messing with cars for as many years as I have. Yeah I'm curious to see how much power it will make, but that doesn't spark the interest back into life. It'll be finished, or split and sold off. Yeah you can...

Nah. Lost interest with it mate so it's still sat there needing a wiring loom.

You need to mark up and drill and tap the 197 head to accept the cambelt tensioner roller that's on the 172. I don't have any pictures unfortunately of a 197 head and a 172 head for comparison, but here's a shot of a 172 head. Basically, where the black roller sits under the dephaser pulley...

I know the feeling extremely well mate. No interest in mine either!

Well if you run the 197 dephaser you'll get the same advance on the inlet cam that a 197 receives. What you won't get is the constantly variable inlet timing as the standard Sirius 32/34 has no ability to run it (or at least not to my knowledge anyway)

Sorry mate notifications aren't working for some reason so only just seen this. As dan has said, you don't need a standalone ecu to run with these additions as you can map the standard ecu. Your just restricted if you do opt to retain the oe ecu in some areas. @adir what bozo is meaning is to...

Erm, basically, s**t loads! Lol! @p@blo has the homologation paperwork I believe.

:up: Nice one mate

Can you link up his video? I cba to log in to fb and trawl through to find it! Lazy t**t ftw. :up: Lol

c***s!!

Agree 100% with this. It'll more than likely end up in Poland!!

I agree with you. My passenger ride in your car felt very impressive. Nice and progressive power delivery with enough urge to make progress with ease. Good car.

Our 730hp trucks are torque limited up until the last 4 gears. Flol!

Mine with strategic grip tape - it's been fitted a good while now and it's also seen plenty of use. No ripping! Excuse the s**t pictures! It's dark in the garage and difficult to picture! Use a hairdryer to form it around the creases is my advice.

As per my text Martin, I'm gonna say shaft bottoming out. Both James and porkie ran the hub kit so they benefitted from an additional 5mm of track width. That could easily negate the issue. If you take the outer cv joint apart it should have a clip that's holding the cv in place. Remove the...

Any hub with 54mm bolt spacing will be fine. It's only 182 cup/cup packed/trophy that had different hubs. They're the 60mm bolt spacing.

Ah in that case mate I'm afraid I can't help you then. Misread your first post about the 2x white wires. I took it as a white and brown wire! Lol!

There's no earth points at the coil pack plug mate. It's only a 12v feed and 2x signal wires. The thicker of the 3 wires is the 12v signal. There should be a relay for it, but I'm not familiar with a 1.2, so I can only go off the position of where it is on the 1*2's and that's on the n/s/f inner...

Yeah f**k it off mate. It's only a fusible link that's there for a front impact on the alternator/alternator wiring harness really.

I've just got strategically placed grip tape in mine. I also kept the strengthening rib in there as its there to help prevent your ankles snapping in the event of a heavy frontal impact.