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Yes the UK isn't dusty but I don't live there :) Not in Dubai but anyway, what you say is somewhat reassuring :) I'll keep an eye on things. Fact- I've noticed some dust inside the elbow about 2 oil services ago and that got me thinking. But was that enough to cause damage? was that more than it...

Yes on a track car or weeknd toy that does 1000 miles per year of course there's barely any risk with a performance filter. But such vehicles are generally taken care of, especially the ones that see track action- they may have engine rebuilds every couple of years and then some gunk build up is...

I'm using aftermarket air induction setups for about 11 years now, but as I had my engine rebuild just finished recently the man that did the job said that the paper filter is the way to go if you want to keep your engine clean. So I also found this particular interesting air filter test: Now...

Well you could take a small risk and buy another box for 150-200. I did this and I was lucky, got a box that works sweet. Or just get a rebuild one for 5-600 if you can afford it.

I had oem clutch on mine, then a helix gr n unit. Both stiff. If you want a big difference swap to a OE spec sachs clutch and a new cable. Night and day difference.

Thx! Let us know when you're done! 👍

You have any idea what the piston diameter is on the 197 unit?

Is the 197 a direct fit to the 182?

Back again at this. Now that I have rebuilt the engine which cost a small fortune, I really... REALLY want to sort out the brakes. So basically everything seems fine, pads, discs, pedal feel end travel is OK, looks like there are no air leaks at the brake servo hose and stuff and still.. The car...

Any news? What are the symptoms of a bad master cylinder?

A friend's 172 ph2 has developed a really really heavy steering for some time. The rack was refurbished, power steering pump replaced with a new one, new fluid. But it's still very very heavy. Any ideas?

I'm asking for a friend which is not a member here. He has the 172 ph2 for 3 years, at first the car was ok, but soon after the steering became heavier and now it feels like it lacks power steering altogether. He changed the power steering pump, the steering rack was refurbished 2 weeks ago, so...

I done nothing but praying but hey.. :))

little story here: after a couple of weeks of literally asking EVERYONE about the mistique 197 crank (ok I didn't ask the Queen, Mr Trump or Kim Jong) I have decided to end the misery of my car being torn apart for 3 months now and just get the bloody replacement crank available (not the meg 3...

that could be an option but I think it would end up pretty costly for a part that is used. mind you that theoretically I can get a new item at 400 quid or so. which is in theory still available..

When did you get it? Looks like there's a chance Renault has stopped making these 😔

aaaaannnnd, would you fancy selling it? :D

ok that's not encouraging at all :(( I have a ph1 172 crank from a friend but the builder says the 1st choice should always be a new crank, you can't really see defects in the metal in older items. that above is the ph1 used crank. if i'd be 100 percent sure it has no hidden flaws i'd get it...

No only the crank hopefully! Not very keen to wait for other 197 items that's for sure! 😂 The car will be a street/occasional track day vehicle so nothing extreme, I just want it to run properly and reliable that's it. Plus the rods are "the solid ones" as the builder said, similar or the same...

The other side 👍 As for my crank-I had the sump off last autumn for a gasket change and new crank seal and the guy that did the work said that he saw some axial play in the crank so he replaced the thrust bearings. It's just that he happened to put one of them flipped around so it damaged the...

Left new crank design right my OE crank. Notice the counterweights. And the 197 crank above which is very similar and the main reason for wanting it. Looks stronger too (it's also heavier)

^exactly! It's just that the 197 is harder to find and I've been waiting for it for 2 and a half months now.. That's why I'm looking for alternatives but this new one looks like it's not that good of a design. But if it's forged at least it's worth looking at.

Of course but now I have the choice between the replacement crank in the photos above or the 197 crank which many say it is forged and very close to the 182 crank in design-similar counterweights arrangement and weight and basically at the same price as the one above but harder to find.

Well forged are supposed to be stronger and if I have the engine in pieces and spend a small fortune rebuilding it then a forged item may be the one I want 👍

But are they cast or not? This new replacement one looks forged..

Hi there, I'm currently on the hunt for a new crank and stumped on this let's say mistery. I was said by someone that many cranks in the 1*2 line are cast iron items and that a better option would be the 197 crank which is forged. Ok so I started to dig up on this and found some particularities...

Ok so it looks like it will go closer to 2k to rebuild the engine. One thing I'm curious about is the crankshaft tolerances. The guys that will do the build say that on most engines they did so far required a new crank. Are they that bad over time? Isn't there a way of rectifying a crank? New...

Also, any alternative to engine assembly lube? can't fine anything in stock these days so will have to improvise!

Hi everyone! In a couple of days I'll get the car to a mechanic and will help him rebuilding my engine. So to make things simpler I'd like to write down the essential torque settings and pattern like main crank bearings, con rods, head bolts, pulley bolts, sump, flywheel etc. So please feel...

Some interesting info, thx!