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That's not too bad at that speed. I assume the "right" figure is off GPS - they're always less than a speedo indication. Still fast though!

Not really; not knowing where the oil filter is doesn't really speak about being able to change it! I had to go looking for it the first time I did a change on 1.2 16v. It's best accessed though the drivers wheel arch. It's pointing down at the back of the engine.

I don't think many people have LSD fitted and the ESP light flickers if it's doing something?

It probably has done, but it you triggered an airbag light (say if you didn't disconnect the battery beforehand), then even if you refit the airbag back the light will stay on until it's inspected/reset by a diagnostic machine. Disconnecting the battery after won't make any difference as the...

Usually you need to have it "reset" unless you disconnected the battery before removing the airbag and adding the resistor? They don't normal self-cancel as a precaution incase there's an intermittent fault and it went out even though there is a problem with the airbag system.

This is common a lightweight hatch, the front balances the car and gives a true gauge of "level" and it's common to just have one balanced on the rear. I assume it wasn't far off the axle stand though?

Are you being serious!? you mean you knew all about your car before you bought it :s

For me this seems less noticeable now the roads are less icy/slippy so I still reckon it's to do with tracking/geometry beings tyre scrub which on dry roads you can't really feel but any slight ice/greasy road you can feel it as the wheel can slip easier when turning at low speed.

HB3 and HB4 are both single filament, I think they're an American design originally - don't think they are ever fitted to Clios though? Quite a good desin IMO as they release and fit really easily (just twist 90 degrees) without any fiddly annoying spring clips etc. The fitment of both is...

Yea, probably because of the softer sidewll the GSD3 F1 has compared to the PE2. The ride is a bit jiggly with the PE2s and probably noisier but this tyre was "developed" with the 182 so I would say best to stick with this one.

OEM discs with PAGID pads IMO. Drilled disc nearly always craze/crack and grooves can often add noise. I would spend most your budget on the pads and get a pair of new OE plain discs.

I think it you worked at any dealership for any make of car you'd get to know faults and also feel that there are more of them!

It won't feel more unstable persee but in theory might do a little but probably won't be anything noticeable. The difference in sidewall strenght will make more of a difference (ie a softer sidewalled 195/45 F1 vs a stiffer walled PE2 205/45 will mean the 205s probably have less roll)...

That sounds like a good price for a genuine wishbone to me, new balljoint but also new bushes too. And no faffing changing balljoints over.

I'm not normally a fan of white but I think that looks great with the darker wheels!

They're nice but for some reason just don't look right. I think it's the edgy lines of the Z4 don't suit. They look fantastic on E46 M3/CSLs though. I think this looks VERY nice:

I agree, the Z4MC looks so good on CSL rims. The LMs seem to suit the Z3M Coupe better.

It's going to be one of the fronts. It would never be the rear (always driven wheels).

Althought the wheels can easily be refinished (so difficult to judge by wheel colour), there is a subtle difference in stance and ride height that is noticeable. I was in the same boat (didn't really know the difference between) but when I looked at one with both cup packs vs one without the one...

With respect to 182s with and 182s without Cup Packs I don't think the vast majority of dealers/traders realise the difference so don't value them differently. I reckon it's just a "182" to most of them. I looked at 3 at traders all around the same price and only one had both cup packs (which I...

Unless I've mis-read the question, I wouldn't say Mintex are a lesser known brand! If that is a good deal (I don't know never bought any brake bits for a Clio), then I'd say go for it - both of those makes are OE spec manufcaturers.

Seconded. It's VERY rare to genuinely warp discs, most people think they're warped them because they get bad vibration when in fact it's a pad material problem causing judder. Pepsie, what pads are you using?

Yes pretty much all macpherson strut design gain negative camber when you lower the car. The only way to alter it is perhaps through camber-correcting bolts on the strut to hub assembly (but there's a limit to how much as AFAIK they are just thinner necked bolts) but the proper way to setup...

They also lower the spring rate slightly (at least on the front, not so much the rear as it's trailing), but probably not a big issue unless you start fitting 20mm+ spacers.

Lowering that much will create a lot of negative camber as you've found out (top of wheels pointing in). Tracking it will only set the wheels straight (still needs doing as the tracking will now be out due to the different ride height/camber). This coupled with the narrow 1.2 track makes it very...

16kg would be about right for a wheel and tyre. Just weighed a bare 182 alloy and it's aboout 8kg. That's still 2kg/wheel difference though which is a fair amount of unsprung weight.

I think I might start another as there is confusion in this one over the ride height!!! hehe

I never "go back" to 1st unless I'm at a complete stop in any car, otherwise I use 2nd. It should pull cleanly in 2nd without needing to slip the clutch unless you're trying to race away or something.

But wasn't the original 172 an "ff" and then there was a 172 Cup, must like a 182 "ff" and 182 Cup?

A 182 FF doesn't exist either, except in your head. :clown: Before I got a 182 I was wary about the rear exhausts (it was one of the least liked parts of the car for me as they seem a bit OTT/attention attracting) but I've grown to quite like them now. I prefer the wider track of the 182...