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That's why you shouldn't go all guns blazing stating he has ballsed it up. Simply ask him to investigate the issue as it wasn't there before the belt change. It may be that something isn't plugged in... I've been guilty of this before. It may also be the timing has slipped for one reason or...

This... messing yourself will invalidate any warranty you have and if he's as reputable as you say he'll do all he can to make sure you are happy and that the car is right.

They are the same computer but there configurations are different. You can use another unit from another Clio II BUT you will need someone (like me) who can set it up for the equipment in your car (unless you buy one from another car exactly like yours

Basically take the plugs out and rotate the engine to TDC on cylinders 1 & 4. Then insert tye crank pin and camshaft locking tool. It should all slot in without any real drama.

I'd honestly say start by finding yourself a reputable Renault specialist close by and seek their advice as some garages are good but most are scarily bad. Experience is everything with these cars... ... if it were one of my cars I'd start with a quick road test to rule out a clutch/brake fault...

Personally, and no offence to your mechanic, unless there's something obviously unplugged or not looking right on live data I'd start by checking the last thing done (timing) as by your own admission it wasn't doing it before.

I joke... it needs returning to be "unlocked" or you need someone with CLIP to do it for you

Throw it away and buy a new one

Breaker bar in between the lower arm and ARB then use mechanical advantage to pull the hub assembly down and line up your bolt holes. Mick

Website is best as I find PM notification a bit hit and miss on tapatalk. We'll get the Clio fixed though ;-)

Not really, it depends what the steering angle was before and after vs the actual steering position. Mick

You posted an update just before I posted... no need to go back. It was because the wheel was misaligned

Yes of course as metals expand/contract with heat which is one of the reasons we use gaskets and sealants.

Sniff test is just what we call the test around here that looks for trace gases in the coolant resevoir. Give me a shout if you're in the area and I'll gladly sort a slot out for you.

Have you done the block sniff and compression tests yet Jonny? The water pump issue won't be helping things but its pointless throwing money at that just now if there's a chance the main gasket is leaking.

You are 100% sure it is actually coming from the oil filter? I ask because if it was you would have a HUGE leak as soon as the engine was started. I suspect it'll be the oil pressure switch unless there's another issue (such as your block being damaged or you not putting the filter on tightly)...

Just check the steering wheel is tracking straight to when driving straight as the steering angle sensor will flag a fault if its out by 5° or more. It should 100% be going back though to whoever did it for you.

Fred is right so listen to what he's telling you and forget the sprockets key way (I believe its the same oil pump and sprocket used on the Megane F7R-714). Its purely bolt tension and clamping force that holds this entire assembly together which works just fine.

Not tried them no but whats the cost? If there's only a few quid difference I'd sooner just stick with the genuine item.

I know the car but didn't think he was on here.

Hope you used a plastic boot and not a stretchy else you'll be doing it again in a few months.

Does Dan have any siblings he cares to offer?

Two very evenly matched cars but the Civic should just see you off from 120 onwards as the F4R will be out of puff where as the K20 will still be on V-Tec yo! Really comes down to driver ability though

Sounds like a broken earth

I'll work all day for £50 then and let you have all parts at cost, how's that? Oh, and here's my Mom and Sister to so feel free to have a go on them also. In business to make money? That concept will never catch on mate.

Mine is on 155k now still with original engine and box (I checked the numbers on RenaultNET). Torque kills them (which thankfully the standard cars don't have) but if you keep your box oil fresh and at the correct level they'll last.

Yeah they do that and one morning you'll come out to it and the deadlock mech won't re-engage and you won't be able to get into that door. I've got one coming in later that went the other way and now won't engage the locking latch so its always open. Change it before it needs destructive...

Door card off, remove the door handle and then the lock/actuator unit... its simple.

A laser is no good chap as surface temps change so fast plus your laser thermometer isn't specifically calibrated for the materials surface type. You really need something like Tony has which is a probe based pyrometer to do it right.

Sounds like a crap code reader or an out of date database. Plug it in to something decent and it will tell you whats wrong.