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Wrong alternator, dodgy charge circuitry or a poor exciter live to the unit itself are possibles. A/C equiped cars are normally 110A units (Valeo AI300V13) Volt meter confirming the alternator is in fact failing to deliver charge? If so, confirm 12v at the exciter wire and if that's good send...

Blue is oil in the combustion chamber so most likely cause is going to be piston rings I'm afraid to say. Mick

Decided to put it back to standard and sell up

Not really, it sounds like you have an issue with your UCH rather than with your alarm itself. It performs many body related functions of which alarm and door management are ones. Some of the early ph2 units were standalone (meaning they could simply be cut) but the later ones from '03 on...

Not that bad anymore... £524 on a FF and £450 on a Cup with us using genuine renault parts. Mick

See what your tensioner is like (i know some places just soak them in WD40 and whack a new belt on to save money when doing belt changes but thats a dangerous game IMO) but bare minimum is a new aux belt. Mick

Everytime the aux belt is removed it needs to be changed. If the tensioner is siezed (it can happen even in 5months if the liner isn't in place) then that also needs replacing. You can do it without if you want but if the aux run fails it will take your camshaft timing with it so make a decision.

Easy enough but ideally needs a new aux belt/kit

He doesn't have to but I prefer a controlled relay to switch a battery feed rather than a switch of unknown spec

No its an ignition controlled live. If you are adamant that you must use these when the keys are out (why I won't understand) then you will need a battery sourced live but I'd urge the use of a relay rather than it going thru a switch.

That's the basic circuit yes but I wouldn't wire the switched live from the battery directly, rather pinch it from an interior feed such as the cig lighter and add a small fuse to that (5A).

Most likely to be a UCH fault due to water ingress i'm afraid to say... new UCH time

You said the leak is clearly coming from the filter not the switch so its unlikely to be the switch. Something is obviously wrong though so start with measuring the actual oil pressure to make sure its not a freaky oump oushing 10Bar at 3k rpm and if that's within tollerence there's either a...

I assume you are using a genuine *913 oil filter? If its deffo the filter then check the thread on the block to make sure its not damaged (and so not letting the filter sit square... replace if required). Also check there is no damage to the block or the mating face.

There is no one single master schematic that shows all of this as the cars just aren't wired like its 1995 anymore. Each item you have listed is on its own circuit and so has its own schematic. I will warn you now though, removal of some circuits you have listed will result in the CAN Bus...

Bumper off then x4 screws per light unit. Do not forget the little one holding the light to the wing or else you will crack the wing... you have been warned lolz

I don't know but I did see Dave looking rather sheepish around a box recently lol

Its at the very top of the gearbox over the flywheel. On that engine it will be well hidden under the stat housing and air box though so you are going to have to do some work to get at it.

Only real way to be sure is plug it in for diags chap. Mick

Has someone tried to reuse it do you think? I see a few that have been tapped out with a drive (which bends them) so they can be used again.

Sounds like lack of compression then... valves went kerazzy ass on the pistons and got b**ch smacked hard. Head off, new valves and possibly guides to followed by new belts (or replace engine and get belts done on that). Mick

You see the pin you have in the pad retaining bar? Its not supposed to be that side ;-) After a good few pedal presses that retaining bar will proberbly fall out.

Have you tried to restart it? Does it run (in amy fashion) or does it sound like there's a general loss of compression?

Remember eBay is generally full of idiots and not everyone is aware of the refurbished products that Apple sell.

I know what you are saying thoigh but Its a gamble sometimes no matter where you go as the larger franchise chains can be more criminal than the small backstreet garages at times. I try to be fair and if my work damages your car then I dig deep. If a part I fit fails then its comes to me...

Courtesy car insurance was not cheap when I looked in to it about 5 months ago not to mention i dont like lending someone a car so they can see how fast it goes in 1st and reverse whilst i treat their car with respect. Regarding warranty issues though (and I cannot speak for other specialists)...

I sold mine on ebay recently for £310. I believe Apple sell them refurbished for around £300 these days

Re: Tyres!!Yoko c-drive, conti contacts, goodyear efficient grip, or michy pilot exal PE2 out of those for me also but they are getting harder to find now as they've been replaced witht hw PS3 (as above).

I think you read WAY too much into that reply then.

New waterpump pump and aux kit won't be a mahoosive bill really... email me if you want a price. Mick