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If you're close by pop in and I'll plug it in for nowt.

Shouldn't be a massive issue, possibly a faulty gear position switch. Quick session on CLIP will say if that's the case or not though. Mick

Alternator uses a clutched pulley... new pulley required or a new alternator I'm afraid.

I've got this car coming in shortly so I'm sure Jonny will report back soon. As for yours, are you sure its been bled correctly? A faulty CTS won't normally cause the need to jump about like that. Live data will confirm/deny this.

If it's the 8v D7F then the ECU is in a different place and so unlikely to be this. If though it turns out to be the 16v D4F then it is possible alomg with damaged/corroded ECU pins, bad earths, other loom issues. I don't even bother fixong these looms anymore I just replace them with new...

Yeah I was suprised to. Apparently it's the 250 block and internals to so just needs injectors, bigger blower and a remap to be properly naughty.

Cheers i love it but its not as sexy as the Coupe (as much as I wanted the Coupe she wouldn't let me have my balls back long enough to make the decision to buy one).

Drove it... Looks boring + 2.0T = big smile & happy Mick

Yes, Live data is your friend... faults like this are nigh on impossible to fix without seeing whats happening (or not happening) as far as the ECU is concerned. Without it you will be guessing which gets expensive unless you're lucky.

Easy peasey... just need to scope the pedal tracks and use CLIP to understand the actual problem and go from there. As long as its not a 172 Cup #f'n things

I got your email btw Perry. Will reply in the morning because right now, I'm feeling a bit pissed (drunken kind)

I personally hate "p codes" as they're meanings are generic... and useless! Sounds like you've got a throttle position fault which is being caused by a difference between the two pedal track values. You are going to need the help of someone with some equipment to see exactly what's occuring to...

Not without seeing it actually doing it, no

It gets loads of people (including myself when I first did the belts on a 2008 van 6 months ago). I said to the customer that there's an issue with his door expecting him to acknowledge it and he was shocked... then showed me :o

Press and hold unlock button on the remote... First few caught me out to (silly anti-jacking)

I hate that nylock that comes with it and use the standard combo nut as it looks like it'll pull thru the hole if not. Glad you like it though Paul, that car is still awesome to see.

ODB2 won't tell you anything but it is most likely going to be a reluctor ring causing the false trigger. Get under the car and visually inspect each ring looking for cracks in the rings structure. Find and replace exercise

If you must use/retain standard management then you need an RS2.

They catch loads of people out mate as they don't go with a bang, more like a "pop". There are people on eBay that can remove the crash data for you for around £25 or you can use a non-crashed computer from another RS which may need CLIP to setup if the configs are slightly different. Mick

I agree with Edges Kirsty, sounds like you've got a proper nasty little gremlin there. Pop over and I'll gladly sort that for you. www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

Why didn't you just unbolt A/C compressor and PAS pump from the block and leave it all hanging? Saves time, money and helps to get the engine out easier

Afraid not, Daddy needs a sensible car so I'm having a Megane III tCe (the 2.0t '180) and then I'm going to light a rocket up my arse and get the R19 rebuilt. I'm really sad to say the Clio must go as I love it but facts are facts... a family car is needed and I'm not willing to sell my R19.

Start with diagnostics... Its not always a waste of cash. Knowing what is actually wrong is half the battle.

Yellow pages > mobile A/C engineer > £45

That's the UCH's coded line fuse... Common.

testing a simple wiring fault but ideally the sensors need function testing before replacing anything.

Unplugging the CTS will also force the fan to startup but turning on the A/C (if it's working/fitted) will do the same.

He's ginger but not a pikey

Check that aux tensioner still moves on the pivot if not replacing the full kit ;-)

Bloody Bosch code is less than useless. If you've had a prang, no matter the force yet tje SRS and SERV light is on then you habe most likely had a deployment I'm afraid (check your seat belt anchors are both the same length). If these have gone then the computer is locked pending either full...