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It looks like an AngelWorks design to me but there's no markings.

Personally it's a must change part as they leak not to mention you normally habe to destroy them to get them out intact. If you try to re-use the non genuine/beta-seal units they piss oil out so just change em.

I think he was talking about what we call the "idiot marker" being wrong on one of your project thread pics... its a common mistake and you won't be the last to make it if that's the case. You can turn the tensioner setting point to 12 but the notches dont always line up and this is the most...

It will cost and we'll have to see how busy the machine shop is as its not a 5 second job

Sorry, what with the title and previously discussing R27 cams I assumed you meant putting R26 cams in the X65 F4R.

Yes

I guess you could but the profiles on the turbo units are pretty mild.

I can put those rears on a lathe and turn them down for you if you want Paul?

Is the opition enabled in the ecu? Have you got a digital multi-meter?

Foxy is right, check the fan and relay are working... just because they're new doesn't mean they work. Also, I'm not "up" on the Omex systems but it appears there are two configurable fan outputs so make sure you've got the right trigger setup.

Should but have you checked they are good along with the connections and the earths? Mick

I need to ask, why? Surely all the effort will be worth nothing on standard profile?

Regarding your fan and shift light... where are your "ignition 12v" coming from and have you measured them with a DMM to make sure they firstly exiat and secondly aren't being pulled down below 12v?

Could be an air leak to but timing is also a high probability also. Be fair, take it back first and ask to have it checked out.

Could be the main power relay at fault to which you can check yourself if you have access to a decent multimeter

Never replace the ecu, unless testing proves it is dead. Generally the Sirus ECM's are bomb proof unless you get them wet or give em a serious surge. I'd say the next course of action is proper diagnostics. It may be a power issue to.

Dan, that's a very good point to. In that case, I'd confirm the VIN numbers match the technology as the UCH no doubt needs reconfiguring and the ABS software needs updating. This is another reason why I hate swapping looms and UCH/ECM/Key fobs between phases as it can catch you out. I'm...

The wiring should be shielded as it runs in the loom next to the main battery/starter motor cable then back to the ECU. Very easy to trace tbh Firstly check the connector is physically okay as they are problematic (hence Renault changed its design slightly with the blue upgrade)

Then it looks like a wiring fault or some king of interference chap.

LoLz - Dave does it all the time... I can never look in his general direction when he does in case I make eye contact with his man bulges (we're friends but some s**t CANNOT be unseen).

Not just yet no, I'm waiting until August hoping to have a release date for the Note3. I love my Note2 but if the screen is anything like the S4 I'm gonna wait. If not, the S4 is being purchased (I've also been advised that the S4 will be a fair bit cheaper to buy outright by 5his time to).

Yes, you are right because you said it is so. Back to your own section now pond dwelling troll.

... if only we knew someone. Some "fitness wanker" with a penchant for wearing lycra pants and detailing super powers.

Then you are proberbly going to need help with this one then. Firstly you'll need to confirm the crank sensor is functioning AND secondly that the signal is being recieved by the ECM (note: cleaning the sensor and confirming it is plugged in doesn't mean its all working) You'll need to plug it...

The UCH has nothing to do with the vehicles Anti-lock Braking System (ABS). It is, in the case of the X65, merely a combined switching and control unit for the vehicles body functions and the primary gateway for all CAN signals. The ABS, as far as braking is concerned at least, is monitored...

Its almost there now and looking ace Dave. Just needs some headlight correction now... but who do we know that can do this?!?

Assuming the red LED is off, yes?

The usual places are breather pipes and manifold joints but it could also be a sensor seal or something else... until someone that knows what theyre doing starts looking (or you smoke test the inlet track) it's anyones guess.

I'm on Tappatalk so can't easily see your profike info. Its always best you tell us what you have as when we assume you have a sport it oftern turns out you have a 1.2 16v. Deffo not a throttle pedal or throttle body issue then if its responding to movement and most likely an air leak... been...