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Are the plugs actually being burnt? Pics please.

Engine noise will change and it will be very tappy but there's no law that says a broken drive chain will make a rattle or a bang. Firstly confirm you have oil in the engine. Secondly, have a mechanical oil pressure test done to rule out a pump vs sensor fault. My money is on either the sensor...

I don't have access to any of my literature right now as I try not to live at work. It depends on the colour of the sensor but again, i believe its around 0.5Bar on the F4R

They fit ;) Mick

Book figure is 3Bar@3k rpm with the oil temp at 80 deg C iirc so a cold start you'd expect it to be higher until the oil warms/thins.

Yep cylinder head off, drop oil and sump then swap the dead piston out with the block in place... Easy job.

Cracked target ring on the driveshaft... Seen it loads of times before and on the 1.2 16v normally.

Why don't you try calling Renault Leicester to see what offers they have on? Failing that, take it somewhere else.

£230 with a water pump and stat if you fancy a short drive to Nottingham. Mick

No, it means there's most likely another problem somewhere on the brake pedal switch circuit and it needs proper diagnosis. Just because the code says there's a problem with the Switch doesn't always mean it is the actual switch causing the problem.

Mint, we'll sort it for you.

The ODBII port is also CAN mate and has CAN H and CAN L lines alongside the diagnosis lines. The protocol changes depending on age but most were KWP2000 iirc. This is why the non-CAN generic readers from Ebay no longer work as the CAN network links all the systems. Glad you sorted it though and...

Bring it to Nottingham and I'll do it... I'm not travelling that far. Mick

5l will be fine

It's all CAN mate, has been since 2001ish

Self fixing cars? That's not gonna be good for business! No, the one under the cup holder is the SRS module but yes, you should pull the topdash off again and inspect the clockset wiring for anything obviously wrong especially as it was all fine before hand. The rev counter and level guages...

They all sound like that mate, its a 1.2 thing and they tap like mad. Depending on the age you may simply need to get the tappets adjusted and that will quieten things down alot but in general those 1.2's go FOREVER as long as they have belts fluids and filters changed on time. Mick

You're gonna be guessing forever mate unless you can spot something obvious thats broken or not plugged in. Diagnostics should be the next step mate.

Its not a common problem no and an earth is a good guess but the clockset and mono-lever are seperate ciruits with a common link... the UCH! Has anything else been done recently? Mick

You've made the rookie mistake of going straight at it with a pair of pliars without appreciating how the wiring loom connects the various systems. In doing so you will have removed a vital link which is now prohibiting the car from starting (or even turning over I guess)... Wiring diagrams...

Yes, a new unit is required OR take that one to pieces and check the contact switch isn't stuck down.

Yeah, don't use the F7R ffs or else you'll have massive problems!

At least you read the instructions. Normally people put those things straight on a tyre with 2.4bar in it and wonders why fluid leaks everywhere!

1l should be enough but I'd say 1.5-2l to be sure if you're doing the one man pedal method.

Not the end of the world if the engine was fully drained down but a 10w/40 is a semi-synthetic oil and the F4R prefers a fully synthetic hence why a 5w/40 is specified... But that's mainly for service life. The 1.2 16v uses either a 10w40 semi or 5w/40 fully synthetic so the mix up may have been...

1.2 16v - I'd guess it will be either the water pump or the thermostat housing but these are just guesses based on common causes on the D4F and would need to see to say for sure. I'm in Nottingham if you need it looking at so drop me a line if you need help. Mick

Firstly I'd learn to use a multi-meter properly as believe it or not most people don't know how to use the basics a DMM comes with. Then I'd be looking for back feeding earth's, shorts to gnd/+ and then make sure all the fuses are intact and are at the correct rating for the circuit. Not...

It's not a simple job from memory to get the Switch out but there's a guide knocking about I'm sure.

That's not strange to hear at all mate and most likely because the equipment they used was not capable of interfacing with all of the Clios systems (or anything that isn't mode7 compliant). More for your info really: http://www.diamondmotors.net/diamond-motors-welcome/diagnostics What you need...

Ive not looked at the schematic for a UCH controlled signal circuit in a long time and I'm at home now so no access to Visiu but I'm sure it'll be the hazard switch that is the fault. If it's not then it'll most likely be the UCH itself which isn't cheap.