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Did you check the live data to see what, if anything, the SAS was reporting? Codes aren't always black and white and it could be a connection fault rather than the sensor itself. Mick

Do the sides work okay independently? If so it could be the Switch, a wiring fault or the UCH itself. Pop it if if you need someone to take a look. Mick

Exactly that matey, they're ridiculously s**t!

Sounds like two issues here both of which have been covered before. Firstly, I'd guess it needs the brake pedal switch resetting and secondly, it'll need looking at to confirm, but most likely a poor connection on the charge circuit or the battery is on its last legs. Mick

It'll no doubt be the clock itself... I bet a second hand unit fixes it.

I'm sure Max Power did a modding Haynes manual that shows how to fit the solenoid and most importantly how to wire it up correctly. They can be had from Ebay for £5 or less. If you're unsure how to wire a simple circuit like this though I'd recommend you don't attempt it as vehicle fires start...

You don't have to drop the box oil just to change the sensor... You just need fast hands and you'll lose about 50ml of box oil. If you jack it up enough on the passenger side you won't lose any. Health and safety notice: Do not attempt this work shortly after driving the car for hours. Gearbox...

As per Lemonnobby's post above, it will most likely be down to either the upper rear lateral tie bar or the main gearbox rear mount. They look fine but are made from cheese and only seem to knock from true cold start and even then only for a few minutes. Either live with it or replace it...

Yes, very much so!

Ahh, that's different then and now sounds more like a leak to the inlet track or an idle control fault which on the 1.2 units can be either stepper motor or valve controlled. Ideally though it's gonna need a proper look I'm afraid. Mick

Faulty sensors rarely throw up lights, they just give the ECU incorrect readings which it uses to make decisions about how to run the engine.

Bring it in and I'll pull the dash to bits for you (again). This afternoon would be good

Sounds like a worn key blade or ignition barrel rather than the immobiliser. Mick

John, the hot start issue sounds like a CPS and that would also account for the poor/rough running when warm also but the imob issue could be something else completely and without seeing it I couldn't offer anymore. Mick

There is no adjustment... It will be a faulty sensor causing it. You could try servicing the TB or replacing Lamdas and CTS but I'd recommend a proper check using the live data.

It's on our website - www.diamondmotors.co.uk

Not without plugging it in to CLIP I'm afraid, no

It's 100% NOT the seats. I don't know what that code is but the description "drivers airbag circuit 2" is to do with the steering wheel airbag which is showing an open circuit. Most likely cause is the clock-ring or squib having a damaged track so replace it and the problem will go away. Mick

Bring it in to me and I'll sort it for you mate - will cost you £25. Mick

I've had this before on a K4J powered Megane II... Turned out to be the MAP sensor but I'm not saying it will be in your case and really you should have it properly looked at.

Needs plugging in mate. Suspect a fuelling fault

There's an ODBII dongle product floating around that is vin coded and simply inputs the bypass code for you. This only works on the older generation vehicles it is probably worth noting and will only work on the vehicle it has the vin programmed in to memory to stop thieves rolling round with...

I've just scrapped a mint 449 16v bonet and spoiler to. I think I may have another spoiler in my touring car spares pile though. Has the muppet drilled the rear hatch to fit the rear spoiler?

Jesus Christ, what's that bonet vent and spoiler all about?

Pics... It's not a burgundy ph2 Karrman is it?

Okay, firstly check all the engine bay earth's... Secondly, check the solenoid control wire on the back of the starter as these are a historical weak point on Renault. Mick

JB3/JC5 are essential the same casings. The JB3 uses spherical bearings in the differential where as the JC5 uses tapered roller units which handle the load better. They both fit any F-series block

okay, when you "move it forward and backwards" is it in gear?

Yep as it coincides with a visit I have planned to a factory to see my 19's sister car. The wife isn't keen on going so I was gonna stay with my friend Mael. Will be a good weekend for sure especially as it's gonna be predominantly clubs and club cars from all over Europe.

Is it normal heating controls or regulated (digital display or twisty dials)? Mick