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Indeed. F*ck. That. Cheers Chip, once again. I wasn't planning on removing anyway, though. Do you think it's fine to paint in situ then or best just leaving that alone?

^ That looks ace. Good work chap. Polished how mate? Did you sand off the paint on the lettering? Also, did you take the cylinder head etc. out to do that or spray in situ?

Is it at all possible? I have a guide to removing the front bumper so that's not an issue, but the bolt holding the drivers side bumper to the bodywork is a little rusted and although freed, just keeps turning. Is there any other way to get access to the headlights/sidelights without having to...

Firstly, I'm sure this has been posted before, but as every time I click on the Search function I don't get a diaglog box to type into, I thought I'd create a new thread. I was initially going to get it powder coated but a few folk said it's £70 where as I could simply spray it for the same...

Bit harsh I think. I'm enjoying it. Not so much that it will stop me from buying F13, but good all the same.

Car is sorted and running spot on again now. It was a lambda sensor issue. Amazing what an oxygen sensor can do to the performance and general running of a car.

Light has already been switched off via diagnostics reset :)

Yeah no idea why I thought it was alternator when I've dealt with that engine management light a few times on other Renaults. Paranoia. I've already done the battery off thing this morning. Resetting the trip is just pushing the stalk in on the dash panels, I can't see any other way to reset...

Indeed. Still a little lumpy but with decat I guess that's expected. Next I need to check on the trip and how that does over the next few days. As said above, it's like new car the amount I've spent. It's only done 35k miles too. Such a simple fix though.

FFS. It wasn't the alternator light - it was the engine management light. Duh. Anyway, lambda's swapped, rear one disconnected and taped. No cutting out. All codes and engine management light reset for free on the diagnostics.

Maybe with the trip yeah. Alternator I have no idea. Light won't go off yet car still runs fine. I'm getting lambda's swapped at lunchtime before I go out so maybe that'll fix it as they can throw up all sorts of problems when not plugged in apparently.

Won't be able to today mate, got a funeral which is an all day thing. Will keep you posted. Like I say the cutting out issue is sorted, but now the alternator light is on constant. Car still drives fine so I'm hoping it's yet another electrical fault. I've disconnected the battery now and I'll...

Out of interest, battery voltage when running is over 14v. With engine off it's 13.5v. So I'm not sure the alternator is buggered. How annoying.

Not sure it's sorted. It's not cutting out anymore with both lambda's disconnected, but this morning when driving the alternator light came on. Didn't cause any problems with driving but it's on and staying on. Hmm.

Well you learn something new every day. Or every new post with this thread. You clever buggers.

"Throttle Control Limits Acquired (Not a fault)." Apparently this is not an issue as the ECU regularly picks it up.

What do I plug the rear sensor hole with once the lambda is out? Also, is it possible to swap them over or is the rear shorter (cable wise) than the front?

Yeah understood that's why I need to swap them and plug it back in. All I know is it isn't cutting out anymore with both lambda's omitted.

Sorted! I think. Removed the Lambda ECU clip from both front and rear sensors. Seems to have fixed the problem. Need to now remove the rear sensor and swap it with the front and connect it back up to the ECU loom. See if that fixes it. If not, I'll need a new lambda. What's the routine for...

Replacing plugs and leads isn't difficult, but the cost of the materials might be. I've got 4x NGK's in mine which cost £38. No idea how much my Prospark leads were but doubt they were cheap. As for diagnostics, again, that could be dependant on the place doing the work. But labour charges...

I'm assuming the Map sensor is the one in blue on the following: Setting off: Prior to cut out: Cut out: Can you tell from these graphs if there's a problem at all? You can see from the stall image that the MAP goes up to 1000 as you suggested.

Actually true. By the end of the week; Cylinder head, belts, pulleys, dephaser, tappets, cams, throttle body, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, plugs, leads, coil pack, exhaust system, V6 airbox... If it's still cutting out it's getting it's head kicked in.

Well I'm also getting a MAP sensor tomorrow. Sounds like things are coming together. Or they better be.

I didn't take a snapshot of the lambda's on the RSTuner live map, but yeah, when I disconnected the rear and started the car, both the front and rear were showing as running at .5v IIRC. Yet with the rear connected up again, the front worked fine again, as the graph on the previous page shows...

Not yet Rob. What I've done is unclipped the rear lambda from the ECU loom. This rendered the front lambda ineffective, as it didn't give any readouts at all. I couldn't work out why this was. In hindsight I should have taken the car out with it in this state but instead I just plugged the rear...

Jesus. Looks like a bit of a weapon that. Styling is all very subjective though.

Of course. I wouldn't drive it without at least one lambda anyway, but at least if it doesn't cut out I'll know a bit more. I think.

Agreed. What are the downsides of running the car with no lambda sensors, even in the short term? Got to be a fuel mixture issue?

TBH mate, I didn't even realise I could do that. If the car does cut out with them both removed, that will confirm that the lambda's aren't the issue, yes?

What I'm tempted to do this afternoon is just take the lambda's out and put the rear one in the pre-cat position and just leave the post-cat blanked off. So I'll have a lambda spare - the one from the pre-cat that I've taken out.