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its strange ph2 wheels suit a ph2 and ph3 wheels suit a ph3, i had ph3 wheels on my old ph2 but went back to a set of ph2 wheels and prefered it. however my currant ph3 has the standard wheels and looks good. (that was a lot of ph'in!!)

worlds apart from a 1.2, i was getting a bit bored of mine to fancied a change but ordered some new dampers for it to keep me happy again lol

100bhp and 180lbft probably not 100% some people on cliodci.net have had their 80s done better asking there

remap completely transforms it, my dci 100 flys now and i quite happily drive about in it for 20k miles a year, with a smile on my face every minute

sexual

panel filter will give no extra noise and be slighhtly more free flowing giving you a tiny power gain. remove the resonator off the airbox (big black chamber that had a feed going onto it from the battery area, all you need to do is pull the little rubber tie thing off and then pull her off...

stick an ecu remap on it, insurance company wont know as they cant tell unless they really dig which they arnt going to do on a diesel clio!

haha who told you that

this started life poverty spec like yours

dont dare change they wheels, they are spot on. ph3 wheels are for gays.

hence why you would measure the bolt spacing on the front hubs...

yes but it previously had a missfire i beleive? causing it to throw unburned fuel down the exhaust.

does it have dark wheels, does it have cup spoiler

u must be missing the rubber covers over the back of the bulbs this happened on my 1.2

possibly a dodgey plug causing unburnt fuel to go thru the cat making the cat louder.

dont bother, knock cash off it and get them done urself. even if he does them be prepaired to have them redone

ahh right, yeah i changed bottom arms, top mounts, dampers, springs, ball joints, engine mounts, track rod ends then took it to get setup and it still had play was going to jump in the canal untill he told me about the inner track rods, i was fed up working on it so just got him to do it lol!!

na not easier in a pit as you need the wheels off the ground to take the tension off the ARB. if your unsure take a picture of the underside suspension arms and ill have a look :) front dampers could be past it too if they have been over speedbumps quickly

it is a cup as it doesnt have xenon headlights, any reason why your buying a cup over the normal model?

ebay

aye? there we go then its possible lol!

yeah thats my mate aaron's its a B18 of some sort although i dont know much about hondas. had quite a bit of money spent on it.

ive never known a lead to fail on them but you never know. does it sound like its only 1 cylinder thats not firing? that would lead me to think either... a plug coil pack an injector or a lead the last 2 being a long shot as ive never really heard of one failing and even if they did it would...

phase 2 rear ruins a really nice ph1!! that ph2 Dynamique is 90% perfect, a Diesel lump would complete it lol i love ph2's!

it will be 1 of 2 things likely if its a 1.5 DCi. 1. its probably the ARB Drop links, look under the front of the car, you will see the ARB (anti Roll Bar) at each side, it bolts onto the bottom suspension arm at each side on the under side, its a black bar. the drop links that bolt it to the...

loose wheel nuts also worth a check

not sure on the knocking but i changed the track rod ends on my last one as i had a load of play in the steering and it didnt cure it, then changed the track rods (didnt know they could be changed!) and what a massive difference! it was razor sharp, my ph1 will be getting the same treatment...

How they should be!!

yeah pretty expensive however k-tecs exhausts are awesome, ive had 3 on my cars, wouldnt choose anyone else. a custom exhaust place would be able to knock you up something simmilar for around £300 or less id assume

jcc added that after i bought it. yeah they are pretty expensive, on my wish list, probably remain their however haha. hows the paddle clutch for driving with?