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do this on flat ground pretty much all there is to it is warm engine slightly so oil flows out freely. remove sump plug over the oil catch pan/cut up old container and let the lot run out as its coming out, remove the fuel rail guard to ease access and unscrew the oil filter from the front of...

as above really, ever since my first 172 that ran utter dogshit on anything other than high octane fuel I just always stick the good stuff in, and as said, over the whole tank it adds what, 3 quid?

standard cup shocks will do the job nicely, give Adam at Renault Wolverhampton a shout, he'll sort a good price :)

as above, injector home mechanic test, run lumpy, remove plugs, note which is sootiest, switch injector from suspect location to new cylinder and clean plugs. refit run lumpy again and check to see if the sooty plug follows the injector or not if it does, faulty injector, if it doesn't, faulty...

for reference I run et37 Williams wheels with 15mm front and 10mm rear spacers (so effective et 22 front and et27 rear on cooksports and get very minor scrubbing on rears over hump back bridge type road surfaces

provided pcd and centre bore is correct yes

its going to look bloody lovely on the Williams wheels, so George is under oath to post pictures as soon as they are on.

goes alright this ;) cheers George, good to meet you and big thumbs up for letting me have a turbo fix, god I miss mine!

love it, the colour, the subtlety and the power, perfect combo mad to sell imo, just toe down and enjoy, break that 5k barrier and you'd never sell it

as above, mines on 120k now and still use 5-40 no worries

you know what I mean, shitfast main drive interface was the point be it PCIe or SATA/mSATA 3 speeds. tbh mines on older mSATA 2 speed and its still quick enough to not notice stuff load and run

tbh with a sata 3 SSD, rams pretty much a moot point these days anyway as you can load from the drive that quick that the 'unused' bits of CS not in RAM can be dragged back into use stupidly quickly I use lightroom on 10gb and if you watch the performance monitor, even with 20+ ie tabs and...

the uch is coded to the ecu I believe, needs to be a matching pair to work

totally different, the map on the ecu for a 1.2 is never going to be the same as a 2.0 etc

I'll come knocking next time I'm back at my parent in Wazza matey ;) be interesting see how it feels compared to the F7P turbo, that thing doesn't let you stop at 5k, hits 7.2k before you even know what's happened, lol!

if its not off the end of the clock, your not trying ;)

you don't need track to hit 7k+ ;) get it done!

ah sweet, never knew that!lol! well if you need a set I can drill them off my old pedals if you like ;)

think they are bonded on so need to swap whole pedal over perhaps? and no idea if they are same fit on lower models

cheers Liam however, mk1>mk2 ;)

glad you got the bits chap :)

welcome

impatience may be it, despite matching the pads back to same discs etc on the swap seems they've just had to re-bed in. the brakes seem much better now having done 500 or so miles on them

as above really, the cooksports are not crashy but they are firm. the sportlines ride higher and are softer and again not crashy so feel more like standard cup springs apex ride even lower but are crashy as hell

they have a limited stock yes I believe but they certainly aren't cheap either ;)

that's just bearings and seals though aint it, that thing needs a new gear and is one of the selectors fubar too?

^^^ I'm with the one of the long neck, imo I'd cough up an extra 500 and get a FF and the 6D is sposed to be very capable

should be RB ;)

ai they aren't cheap and I wont let them go cheap, there was only ~1200 sets max of genuine Williams wheels in the UK originally from the original run of clio Williams from 1993-1995

Gimp works well, what I use for this kind of stuff, and the price is good too................ :) Lightroom for the normal editing when I want to produce something a little less........well shopped