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:)

and tbh, mines not exactly smooth delivery shall we say.............crap map on it, lol!

very nice the seatbelt clean is on my list of stuff to do, stiff brush and some washing up liquid?

in all honesty, just bolting them on, no not really

rofl, my cars pulled anywhere from 253 to 285 on various RR's over the years and its not changed spec at all in that time. and still ran consistent mid to low 12 second 1/4 miles over the same period too. so someone was fudging something ;)

yep that's the selector anchor, just do it back up. you can just about see the gearbox sump plug in the pic, its right in the bottom middle of the pic, see around half of it and the little copper sealing washer. that's where you want to drain from. the oil you have drained however is still...

lovely job :)

mine used to get a small sort of whiny/tinny noise under slow acceleration, there was bits of crap in my airbox. cleared it out, been fine ever since

can it be used to drag it out of gravel traps ;)

agreed, the 20 year old mk1's I have run on anything, boiled up dead otters, the lot

welcome :)

bloody lovely

I always run 98 ron or above, I used to use supermarket 95 on my first 172 and half the time it didn't run at all, just kangaroo'd everywhere and lost power. so that prompted my move to the higher rons not specifically v power I hunt for, just happened I was going past a shell at the time

22 quid of V Power to top the tank up, that's it

there should be a little plunger type switch with a similar size cylindrical base/plug on the bottom attached the slam panel/above headlight around that area

that circular connector sounds like it could be for the bonnet sensor for the alarm?

no danger then :)

presume its a phase 2 with FBW throttle? battery off for half hour and back on again tbh and try that. just make sure you have your stereo code to hand.

bosch are a bit of an exception, the case itself is bosch only as far as I'm aware, not like the generic swappable black ones

yes will bolt straight to phase 1 head and upper, like for like replacement. tbh if I was matching I would send both the phase 1 bits off and just sell the RS stamped one.

nah you don't need amp for them, and tbh as above mentions, some decent rear speakers in standard location would be just as good and much more subtle visually (no to mention less of an advertisement to thieves)

cheap as chips :)

Physical checks is best, there are several earth straps, main on to check up on is the gearbox end case to inner wing.

Rofl, have you actually ever met Mick, or researched his reputation on the forum? if there was ever a person I would ever trust with a car it would be him.

I've come to peace with it mate, I know the car will ALWAYS require bodywork and I'm willing to accept it as part and parcel of old car ownership, it's 20th birthday 2014 so bit more botox and a rebirth as a road car :)

I had full topside done, the front jackpoints have since eaten themselves as well,lol!

cheers chap, I love pod in that car

my turbo mk1 clio, had it the longest I've owned any car and despite the fact I've only done sub 20k in her and spent pretty much the earth on it, I love it. currently SORN and awaiting welding as well so looking sorry for itself :(

as above, you can fit the RS stamped lower to the phase 1 but you will still need the upper phase 1 with it

sounds to me like that one I saw pic of few weeks back with a banana shaped spring tensioner, looked mental. totally fubar