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Thats the brake compensator, it should be just loose when nothing is in the car. As the rear suspension compresses it yanks on that arm and the valve baises more pressure to the rear brakes. if its set up wrong youll be locking the rears all over the shop.

right, doh, didnt even think of that.

its easy yes. forget the haynes, its only a few bolts, clips.

i cant see crap!!! its just a grey blob!

Just use a hammer then, with a metal bar to direct the force....... Bending it WILL sort it

potentiometer is red and on teh throttle spindle, dont touch it, its not a problem. ISCV or Idle Speed Control Valve is the sort of cylindrical shaped thing on the side of the throttle body, with a rubber pipe comming off it, start the engine and squeeze it, it should whistle. Take it off...

use your aircon lol. You could use a charge cooler filled with dry ice i guess, but using an intercooler would no lower the temp at all. You take in ambient temp air, send it through a large capacity intercooler, only to be cooled by.......ba dum, ambient temp air........heat soak can occur...

clicking is probably just the injectors.....tappets have to be heavily worn to tap majorly. Potentiometer is the TPS and provides the ECU with throttle position data. But i think your problem is either the ISCV or a leak in the manifold somewhere.........possibly one of the vacuum hoses.

do you know what from? cant you match the other side? lol

Path really doesnt matter at this level. And read my post!!!! its all been answered!

lol.........you mean i didnt type teh once! Still got all my millions of periods though.................;) Damn, spotted one "now way out but through the cylinders.".....should be NO.

i just told u guys how to fix it!

nice one tom!

Correct. BUT, the principal is that you cannot create an increase in the relative positive pressure in the airbox.............there is no one way valve to contain air entering it to come out. THen you have to consider the massive volumes of air a 2ltr engine consumes, flow at rd speeds would...

The MAP sensor does that job.

dunno, not aware of any drain pipe like pipe in teh engine bay, jsut a rubber elbow from the airbox And the pug design is to best get a fresh supply of cold air. The Ram principal does work in theory, but not even F1 or Indycars apply it. The speeds we can reach are just not high enough...

not all cars have an AFM.

take the manifold off, best use some emry cloth then finer emry to smooth it first as the casting grain is large and rough, then use a bench polisher and hand held air polisher.....

nope. All abot emissions, do a hot start where the at is up to temp and itll drive fine from the off. Ive said it one ive said it a million times, it runs the engine extreemly lan to make the emissions for EURO 3 complience, until the cat is warmed up and can do its thing.

ram air doesnt work for any car

B&Q.....were joking right?

damn straight!

call him and ask

you can still gian power by either advancing or retarding the cams slightly either way....... although cams should all be identicle, they very slightly and each one will need the timing to be oh so slightly diff.

i got one off the williams, its loud and farty............ its cheap, and does the job i require.

which manufacturer? Renault or Kent?

The MAP sensor and TPS, and RPM......

i didnt even get the washer! free or included! lol

Cams help quite a fair amount when coupled with a decently modified head, but going only a tiny bit wilder really doesnt do the trick.....its a waste of money if you go for a mild profile. Try piper they are a tad better with their profiles. Schrick or Cat cams are what i would stump for...

i had the problem. jsut get ot on a ramp, get a acetelene torch on it (careful the fuel tank is right behind it) then bend the hander to lift the exhaust up....i did it and its fine. Use stronger rubbers as the Ktec system weighs a TON and even mine needs the rear most rubber replacing...