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huh?
your gonna follow the boot floor with the brace?
Your gonna get all sorts of leverages and need to use some HEAVY gauge steel to be stiff enough........might as well use lighter steel and triangulate from the strut TOPS
doggy...........its would be LOUD! lol
rear brace......is till wouldnt spend my money on a half heated attempt......squeeking means movement.......the brake is already not doing its job.....its not like the chassis twists inches....maybe a mill or 2.
5-6psi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
um, your only about 38psi short!
your making under half a bar, and the injectors will dribble fuel like an invalid baby.
its got the flow for a carbed engine, not an injected........
ok, so whats actually the broke part on it.
You check for fuel supply, spark, the ICV (not so familiar with the turbos) on the aspirated engines are a bit ballsy and lots of people have probs with them.
Find the simple source of the problem first...then backtrack.
i say the idle at cold start on the MK2 is worse due to EURO 3 legislations.
But if you slap on all your MK1 leccy bits onto the new engine (which is the same minus the leccy bits) then you will be fine.
if you reuse your MK2 inlet and exhaust system then you should be able to.
only the twin lambda. FBW and electric systems are diff for teh MK2 ECU.....engine is teh same.
i wonder how they can claim that sort of stuff.
20bhp!!!!!
thats 15kw of heat.........try standing near a 15kw source of heat.......your box would be blue! lol
aye, but there is only so much you can prevent using ignition only...........if its running lean, its running lean, retarding to much may stop det but youll burn out an exhaust valve with the increased EGT.
not very....lol......
and you got no fueling compansation?
It could of entered limp mode through a detection of excessive knock or a slight period of detonation.