Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
take upper inlet off and o/s wheel and arch liner, gives you more room. bit fiddly to do but as long as the brake pipes crack off then an ok job to do.
blank each pipe off then you take the out of the m/c and when you fit the new m/c get some fluid in it and give the pedal a couple of slow...
If you sell it quick I've got one coming up for sale over next couple of weeks so that will give you time to buy something else, get bored of it, regret selling it and buy this other one...it's even got a pms shifter already on it...and bilstiens!!
it's a bugger when you do head etc as you get the parts costs as well, belts, gasket, bolts etc so can mount up to a scary old bill to say the least!!
it's worth considering pistons as well as it's not much longer once head is off to stick a set of high comp ones in.
not sure what would work best with different inlets,
can do you a good price for head change:wink: done three over last ten days, last one was with bodies and saved a good hour or so overall.
172 cup, standard inlet, cams, rs tuner map, 182 exhaust manifold and powerflow exhaust.
sm inlet, pms manifold back single box exhaust, epas and remap at efi.
can't remember what the figure was beforehand as that one was stu owens car.
99% of the time it's due to the angle you look at it, titanium is the worst for this. it's the way the metallic sits on the plastic wing due to static.
you may well be the nicest chap in the world but the way you've come across in this thread makes you appear to have an attitude that sucks, could be a primary school teacher possibly?
question was clearly answered.