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just get a set of h&r on.

thought we were talking about gearbox top mount? i was, wouldn't leave one on just top engine mount.

the k4m pin screws in to the block and fwir (been a long time since i did one) the pin goes in and the crank is turned until it hits against the pin whereas on the f4r the pin goes in to a timing hole in the crank. daftly enough there is a balancing drilling right next to it!!

have fun, it's easy enough.

nope, not even an advise for it.

traction/srs light isn't a fail.

ah, furry muff. comes out ok though with just the one side dropped.

ktec printout?

slacken the drivers side off and take passengers side bolts out, will give you plenty of room. you only need to pull the gearbox back a bit, no need to take it right out.

just drop the subframe down on the passengers side, no need to pull it out.

leave it hanging from the top mount.

flashing eml is an injector.

locking pin is different, other than that the rest is the same.

yup, be fine.

no need to remove hoses. undo the pinch bolt from the drivers side wheel arch.

leave the rack bolted in place. don't bother moving the starter, will just drop back a touch when you pull the box off the engine.

have you cleaned the big connector yet?

don't know what's worse, the bloody awful huge out of focus picture or the pikey cheap nasty studding set up? i'll give it about ten minutes running before it bends and the belt jumps.

:disrelieved:

pardon?

por 15.

as said, warm soapy water.

injector.

just behind the front subframe.

ideally get it plugged in. if you want though under the passengers side behind the brace from the back of the front subframe to the body is a big connector. un plug it and give it a good clean and see if that helps.

should we say that 'someone guessed' instead:wink:

brushed afik

true. they do nuts as well.

think they are the right length?

http://www.beal.org.uk/automotive/exhaust-manifold-nuts-studs/stud-m8-x-42-renault-20-/prod_3258.html