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get them to bring the idle up slowly for the fast idle. might need to hold it for a while for it to settle down.

use por15/chassis black instead of powder coat.

that's good for a transmec.

not me, not driven much on eibach to give fair comparison, but h&r are a great spring though:wink:

http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=130&model=6

calipers will be on the correct sides as the flexi wont reach if you fitted them upside down.

needs to be 712 for studs.

piece of cake, wheels off, clean threads out, loctite on the stud and wind it in and that's pretty much it. avoid the cheapy ones though as they don't have a shoulder on the thread so can be wound to far in to the hub.

go with a nice stud/nut set instead. makes wheel changing easier as well.

nope, need m12. the colour on them doesn't last either.

carriers are on the wrong side.

pic?

jut tidy it up with a small file.

12v at injectors? check signal from crank sensor and take it from there.

crank pin in the wrong hole.

no worries. that's just his driving, my nan drives quicker than he does:tongueclosed:

some dodgy looking bloke bought it:wink:

euro should be able to do you one for not much over £50. could be a bit more though as i've not bought one for a good six months but doubt they would of gone up much.

the engine/shafts need to be lined up to the body, don't just pull the engine forward.

no worries.

lower and further back a touch.

bolts on just above the inner cv boot plate. other on is just under/behind the headlight, two earths next to each other.

yeah, you got me, i'm talking crap to try and impress a bunch of people i'll probably never meet.

2k clear coat, anything else won't last or protect as much.

pop the lines off the sender/pump on top of the tank

just needs adjusting. not rocket science:wink:

compression test and leakdown test.

don't think they will take a box out?

standard rebuild by martin is £275 fwir?

doesn't matter if he indicated or not.