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h&r are great, got the wife's 172 on them and it's really nice, firm but not harsh or crashy at all. have been trundling round in a mazda 3 mps with them on as well and again they are a really nice spring, imagine they would be great on track.

mintex one is around £8.00

yup, it's shat a plug out.

have you had it on live data to see what the abs sensors are showing/seeing?

h&r

and get one off him up there/\/\/\/\

why was it a non runner?

ball joint is on a different angle. afik they all come as per cup geometry now when you buy them new.

borewash

if i've got the wife's car next time you're up at mine you'll have to have a drive of it, running h&r springs.

a dog turd is a step up from cooksports, i've got a 172 that i'm running at the mo with them on and they are the most over rated spring ever!!

did you do the last ones with all the plugs out?

map could of killed the two of them. get it on live data and see what readings you get from the front lambda when it's upto temp.

de catted?

flashing or on solid? assume solid, the lambda would explain that.

a faulty injector should give a flashing eml and show up on code reader, even the most basic ones should give a cylinder misfire number. but they can be clogged of the pulse time can be off among other things. first check is resistance, should be 15 ohms. visual check they are spraying doesn't...

if people understood how important pre load was on suspension they probably would buy them. anyone from a bike background knows the first thing you do with setting suspension up is set the pre load.

if the valves/seats are just on their way out then it can show up like a mis fire on tickover, plus the pops and bangs map will kill them anyway. losing fuel on compression stroke though exhaust valve can give you a weaker mixture, then run hotter burn and give pinking. ecu can get 'confused'...

probably on cable.

may well be valves/seats on their way out. could be worth checking voltage on the lambda and then check hydrocarbons if lambda checks out ok.

how long you had pops and bangs map on for?

as a general rule unless it's totally dead a crank sensor will play up when engine is hot and you try to re start it.

would get it on something better than snap on before you go throwing parts at it.

look at the white bush on the bottom of the box.

no worries.

the bolt isn't stuck at all, do it as i said and the bolt will come out easily.

don't think there's enough left to grip on to?

the bolts aren't to tight you used a crappy socket or had it on an angle. put most of the bolts back in and then drill the head off that one and then take the rest of the bolts out. once the head is off the bolt will come out easily.

just cheapy raceland ones with a couple of hundred ktax added to them.

is the pass side on upside down? not sure if it's just the pic?