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always had a soft spot for them, had a 64 1/2 4 stud years ago. wish i'd never sold it.

sorry, read it as ticks over at 4,500. you need to use the ecu from the car you've put the engine in.

what upper inlet is on it?

Can confirm the numbers above are the right ones.

that would be a long list. care to narrow it down a bit?

standard think was '02 onward. not sure if they even do the older type one anymore?

decent code reader.

they're not much cop.

i've seen a few cars now running one of each width ring and have been fine. don't know if this is always the case though.

pretty much a grand over priced.

nothing to do with being heavy handed,the inner was going to come out regardless.

the inner comes out.

new bearings. the bearings themselves had play in and they had pushed up through the sleeve they are fitted in.

i wrapped it round a lamppost a few years ago.

look for play under the spacer under the top mount, i got a 172 with a set on and the top nut had worked loose and smacked the bearings up in the sleeve in the top mount!!

without the spacer the nut/flange tightens on the flat end of the stub axle instead of the bearing inner. bit of emery cloth and elbow grease sorts it out, use the inner off one of the old bearings to check it's ok.

you've squashed the end of the stub axle, you need to sort that out before you fit a new bearing.

as above m6 and you must be an animal to shear one:wink:

don't want to pee on your chips but it's all in your head sorry, you've just wasted your money.

just thrown a set on the wife's car, nice firm spring but horrible on potholes though!!

think the kw are around £800 new though.

my 182 came with them on and they are an ok set up even on standard top mounts. if you can push your budget a bit then i'd say go for a set of bc coilovers, ok the rear isn't a coilover BUT you can set the preload on the front and then adjust the height whilst keeping the preload set.

does look cockeyed.

pms

red arrows aren't cheap you know!!!

hard to say for sure 'cos that's an awful video:wink: does look like there is play though. shouldn't be any.

even a cheap nasty code reader should give live data, run it up from cold, keep an eye on the coolant temp and when it's up to temp see what the voltage is doing.

i had one in for test that was running close on 12% fwir, it actually set of the carbon monoxide detector in the flat above the test centre!! have you had it on live data to see if it is switching?

i'd say to prove it is the map first before you remove it.

have you tried to organize anything you lazy bugger?? last one i remember was a meal somewhere.