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dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point, but only really matters on the track, my castrol dot 4 didnt over heat on the track.
also, it has a shorter service life, requirering bleeding every 2 months as it absorbes moisture fast!
you can also get silicone stuf if you really want, high boiling point...
WOW WEE!
i got blown away didnt I.
Trev, there is no need to be so arrogant. I totally agree you know more than me, you being in business as long as i have been on this planet. so im not going to argue, i do respect your autoratah! but i would more so if you said everything here nicely.
i...
im sure you could get higher rpm out of the willy crank, maybe stronger end caps? cause an 8000rpm F7 engine would rule......if a 20yr old x flow can do it, then yours can
hah, my accent is totally screwed from living the ex-pat life.
in hk, i have a sort of british pommey accent with american pronounciation (i hate it, but im trying to correct it), new have west country nit every now and then....very confusing for most people.
bleeding brakes is a 20 min affair. very easy. Most fluds are Dot 4.1 or similar, dont be tempted by dot5 as they tend to have a short service life.
I woulld recommend a complete flush, buy a bleedig kit, or borrow one from me, from halfords. oh, and buy the new castrol synthetic brake fluid...
well, basically thats it,just need an air powered die griner to port heads, and some porting accessories....ta very much.
Btw do you have a scottish accent?
hahah, alopolies.....thats like when my dyslecsik (hehe) mate says tefphalone...hehe....hes so funny.
ET is the offset i.e. the distice the hub face of the wheels is from the centreline of the wheel in MM. you can get et 35 (35mm from teh centre of the wheel) and -et 35, where the hub face...
ive built a custom sealed airbox for my Rt out of fibreglass, painted silver, with a stainless top and an airfeed to the front. Only problem is i need to clean it so often cause it sucks up all mater of sh*t on the motorway.
p.s. i think we were all pissing about on the aircon...
Noticing you got a 172, ill have a look in the workshop at the 172 head and see if there is much that can be done to it, cause i expect it was carefully cast and port matched....but you can always inprove on perfection.
about an hour.
I could either source and provide the head, do the work and give you the head back....but it would involve stripping all valve gear and putting it back later...either with the originals or new stuff.
theni cuold either mail it or meet up, then give you the complete head to slap...
thinking about the aircon thing, it would be quite hard. You could tap the ducts from the compressor, or you could take a pipe fron teh throttle bosy all the way into the cabin, and place it near the air vents.....all silly thoughts really...but i wonder why nobody has created a cold air...
well, it would be hard to say, not having finished one. But you can usually increase flow of the inlet and exhaust by an average of 7% doing the basics. so on a little engine maybe 10bhp. But the point of it is efficiency, removing casting flashes, sharp edges, matching the inlet and exhaust...
making a removable system is actually quite easy. Most cars you see, will have the solenoid bracket drilled into the chassis or bulkhead somewhere. But what i did is look for any 2 bolts near each other (about 2"-6") and use these to bolt the bracket holding all the equipment to. Just make sure...
im in the process of learning how to port heads. Starting on ford crossflow heads and 1.4 energy heads.
They obviousely wont be as good as people who have been doin it for years, but i am being taught by the best,a legend in racing, Tachi. He did all the 60s - 90s toyota stuff etc.
But would...