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Depends on preference but the rule of thumb generally to have a neutral handling car is to match weight distribution front to rear. Car with 50/50 weight distribution should in theory have same weight springs all round if like a clio its 60/40 then thats what you should be looking at. Cup cars...
To match 250lbs rear springs get 60nm or 350/375lbs up front (you will not need any stiffer for a Rallycar), i do think they are 1000lbs (same a cup racer which i have driven on the road and would feedback exactly the same as you have). Only way is to buy some and try and get them rate tested.
Yes correct its the F7 engine from the Pink car, was excellent in that car and we have fully rebuilt it with a few extra mods and a new Jenvey ITB set up with 100mm extra induction length. Its now got 180lbs (peaks at 189lbs) from 4500 to 7000 now where it used to be a bit more peaky before...
Finally engine and gearbox running in... :-)
Tidy loom connector, swap out fluids and all set for first event.
Taster... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-rTrRYKQKY
245bhp
6 speed Sadev sequential
Ap brakes
Reiger suspension
0 miles
Renaultsport Europe had the embossed ones when they used them for Euro cup race series. They run 182 rear hubs so they wanted a ET 47/8 a (not the UK cup ones) wheel so they made these and you could only buy through renaultsport europe.
As you know there's a lot of people who think they know about stuff but don't, if you corrected everyone you would have to post every 5 mins. Just though there been to much on this subject and it needed clearing up.
BTW if anyone wants the sell some origional design wheels I'm after some.
There was never a mag 2118 used the mag ones are a different part number.
What happened is the UK cup cars used the origional wheel 7kg, supplied through renault sport only not general sale (this was the only one you could buy). Palmersport bought a load of new cup cars and had joe public drive...
Think i have found the issue.......the clutch cover has too much meat on and not been ground off enough so it just catches the inside of the bell housing and locking it up. :-(
Does anyone know the gap / distance from the block face the the rear of the flywheel and also to the front face of the flywheel. Just to check if the flywheel is sticking further out than normal.
Got a car thats had new gearbox fitted and come to start the car the starter click noise and nothing. Check starter Ok and earths and then the engine and its locked solid wont move........not turned a rev since gearbox fitment.
Going to remove starter and loosen gearbox from engine to see if...
Basically which wire goes to what pin (i know ground is in the middle) as my currect loom has a different connector vs the Jenvey type on the TPS and want to put a new connectors on loom (ITB car).
What size wiring is used for wiring the coil pack guess 1 power ans 2 triggers. Does the power wire need to be a bit beefier to supply etc? Have some 16amp 1mm copper core rated wire not sure if its enough.
Did the box fail? was going to come up and watch (was suposed to be doing the rally and debuting the new car but time ran out)
Was the preload failure just the plates?