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Next month (prob March) i will work on some packages after i get the rallycar sorted. Will be less than half the price of the K-Tech solution with a better ECU and no tie in (extra cost and inconvienience) with mapping etc.

To answer your comments, im not in the business on making loads of money and profitearing, just helpping fellow competition car owners which is the core of forum values. Quite frankly the way you come across i wouldnt sell you one anyways......If any of your friends do compete in a cup racer and...

LoL no diagnostics but can view all the inputs etc. its one benifit for working for one the the biggest controls company in the world. They said it wasnt very difficult matching the CAM datastream of the MM.

Are the Valeo coil pack connector std connectors you can buy off the shelf? I want to make an extension lead to give the loom some more length to relocat the coil to where i want it. Dont really want to cut the loo to do it. Any info anyone?

Why do you want a patch lead do you have a cup racer?

Yes

Offers?

Mine cracked there too.

Agree.....stop spamming his thread, totally off topic. Only metric is how many sold, Cup racer link kit 1............due to the overly expensive ECU. Back on topic we hope....

Very much as above spec in terms of bits etc.

If single TB then -5% bhp vs ITB but same parts as above.

230bhp is all off the shelf items ITBs AT/Jenvey (dont bother with std inlet and for the proce of an RS2 may as well get ITBs 12.5cr pistons forged Rods Lightly modded head and CAT 422/3 cam and double valve springs Supertech valves but not essential for a fast road build. 182 manifold Proper...

Well said....... Regards investment of time and resources Ktech didnt do the CAN BUS work a customer of theres did and they took it so 0 investment....... Regards the MM dash it has a seperate feed for tacho so rev counter works without any CAN BUS work. I know it works as people are doing in...

Mine was from France and has a modified Spring and shows same has Hissingsids with Millers 10/40. Cold oil pressure was quite high and needed to warm up before use as the oil pressure would get to 100psi.

You have to replace it every event. I head the shockproof is recommended so may switch to this after is run in and shakedown complete.

What do you mean by that the sub loom over the odds it will just be plug and play so you can use the cup loom (very high quality and no need to butcher it to put in a new engine loom.) will only be 200 quid to get it on an open ecu. You can use the x dash or race 2 dash plug and play. Another...

I can get some made from the guys who do the Alcons and have the drawing etc but was 120 quid each roughly.

Discs are bespoke Alcons not renault ones. b**ch to get hold off.

Managed to find a brand new pair in France in the Alcon boxes myself as they are hard to source. It supprised my how insecure the Hubs are on the bearing you would think its a nice secure fit.

Will be interesting what you find when looking at the hubs, if the they were bent etc? They are Laguna ones if you havent got the FAG part numbers just let me know.

Why you not confident with the millers stuff? Have to say I had no oil issues with my last box but it was a synchro box not a dog sequential. should be up and running on the rollers next week.

Very strange.... I have put std discs on and the car feels like to rear wheel steers.!!! very strange. They are new Mintex not Renault ones so maybe its that as everyone says to use OEM ones, strange as they are new but it feels terrible and i have the washers on the right way. One point was...

thats rallying...! did the car handle funny before the bearing let go? Guess you running the std discs/bearing rather than the bigger cup racer ones?

What happened at Pembrey Ian?

DTA list some Bosch / Magnetti Marrelli ones which can be ticked and used. Anyone know what the std 1*2 one is?

Std CTS has 3 pins but the DTA one has 2 pins? Can i use the std one or do i have to chop the loom and fit a 2 pin connector?

Im after the Renault connector or a female (to mimic the Reanult TPC connection to put on the jenvey TPS) rather than cut my loom and have 2 new connectors. This one im after below well the female matching one to this.

Trying to find a matching loom connector to put on my jenvey tps, my loom has a connector for a ph 1 tps so after matching connector to fit the tps.

Anyone?

Whats are the resister values for the std CTS when using for an aftermarket ECU???? Anyone got a chart or dialogie page?