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ITBs won't make a difference to compression as long as you followed the normal rules. Did you hold the throttle WOT when you were cranking over? I'd try another gauge then as 120 is well down.
I can only speak for half of the arguement but the megane will do circa 25-28mpg round town and 35mpg is easily achievable on long journeys sticking to the speed limit.
It is on the front facing side of the throttle body?
Being that late a car it's possibly got a Ph2 fuel setup on it where the regulator is in the tank not on the rail, and that take off is where the pressure reg gets its vacuum feed off on the Ph1 setup.
Its used for the acoustic valve on a...
The steering wheel airbag is 2 stage, depending on how far the seat is from the wheel it decideds how/when to fire the airbag. Hence why the idiots (women) who have to seat back then lean forward 3 inches from the wheel will get surprise one day then hit something.
Put 4.2.1 on it and jailbreak that for a start, 4.1 is ooooooooold now.
As for the freezing can't help you, never had anything like that before.
Google greenpois0n.
No but the bottom pulley spinning would do, its a stupid design flaw imo. The question to be asked is that as the engine already sounds to be beyond the point of economical repair at this point is it worth spending more £££ on labour for them to strip it down? It'd probably be cheaper labour...
Normal ATF is all you need. Replacing it is as easy as finding somewhere to drain it off then refilling it and bleeding the system, haven't looked at a 1*2 in a few years now so can't recommend any easy to get to places to drain it off the top of my head.
They're the bearing on the bottom of the connecting rods where they bolt to the crank. Not many normal reasons why they should fail really, extremely high miles, poor servicing (maybe) or oil starvation (most probably). Sump off and have a poke around it definetly the next port of call. No point...
I disagree completely, it should be exactly the same as your mates. The braking split is low to the rear but its more like 70/30 off the top of my head and it should be more than capable of stopping you turning it by hand! That'll not be doing any braking on the road, do an hard emergency stop...
Its in a fixed position and not attached to the beam, the rear braking bias is set and doesn't alter with the position of the beam as it would conventionally. Hence all the inital mot fails on low rear braking effort and the vosa newsletter about it.
Later boxes use a bolted diff retainer so the circlip isn't a problem. The circlip is just the tip of the iceberg anyway, the boxes just weren't ever designed to take high torque.
A jubilee should be fine on a 1*2, plenty of room for the screw section to rotate. Get the wheel off and have a look for any witness marks if you think it may be catching, see if it makes the noise by hand too...
When under hard cornering the oil is moved to one side of the sump and it uncovers the oil pump pickup. So you loose oil pressure, if unnoticed its baaaaaaaad m'kay.