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Retapping it is an option but you need to be aware that if its beyond repair the bolt will come loose, just something to keep an eye on after doing it.
Have to strip the full swivel hub out and have the spigot hub pressed out of the bearing. Probably knacker the old bearing getting it out so might as well fit a new one at the same time.
So in a word, no.
Seeing as its a spaceframe chassis with a plastic megane body on top and has no actual basis on a road going megane like the clio cup cars not so simple.
Its because its a 172 and most of them haven't got CC fitted, I had the same thing when I put an rstuner map on my old 172. Had to get henk to sort out a custom file, so try the same thing. Think I had to email him my original cal and firmware though for him to do it which might be a problem as...
You don't f**k about with the rear wiper you hold the trip computer button down when turning the dash on. Probably just managing to press it by accident and its very limited as to what it tells you, more to show faults with the dials tbh.
With the engine stopped the throttle will behave like you say, entirely normal. If you run it with the filter elbow off you'll see it operates as you'd expect a throttle to when the engines running. And tbh a dodgy pedal is usually the two pots not matching up and it'll chuck an OBD light on or...
Should be a common aux belt driving both the alternator and pas pump. To get the pump off you remove the bolts holding the pulley to the pump shaft and then the bolts that hold the pump to the aux bracket are behind. Then disconnect the pump pressure union and return hose and it should be...
Has the shaft sheared/come away from the pump? Looks like its been leaking or has that come from the shaft? Replacement pump and new belt kit should see you ok.
Don't be thinking you can drive round forever with it like that btw, the alternators not being turned hence not charging the battery so once that drops below a voltage the ecu isn't happy with its game over until its sorted + a booster pack.
^ Thats just asking to scratch the f**k out of the scuttle cover though. If they won't come off with gentle pursuasion then what Typan's posted would be a good idea.
Bearing puller to get the wipers of their taper usually works, they get rather tight to say the least. Water usually has to enter the cabin through the heater and I can't remember any other entry points that side from memory. Check the skuttle drain in the center would be the first port of call.
Is that even worth insuring fully comp? Just insure it TPFT and don't declare, be a lot cheaper and better than fronting. Don't be a knob an crash it and you'll be laughing.
/devilsadvocate