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Looks like a complete right hand side wishbone to me.

Was going to ask if it was charging the battery properly but looks like I was beaten to it! Glad you've got it sorted.

If you can select gears normally but no drive i'd guess its probably the diff circlip fell out. Worth having a look at anyway, do a search its a commonish thing on the circlip retained diffs. Just hope it hasn't fell into the bottom of the box if its that.

Common thing is the brake pedal switch wanting adjusting. But could be anything really.

You'll need a bearing puller to get it off the spindle.

Power steering pressure switch i'd imagine. Doesn't have too greater an effect I don't believe, it doesn't pick the idle up as it does in other cars at least. Wants sorting though.

Tbh the first thing I thought was how must rust was on that lower defletor pulley bracket :o.

Not 100% sure on them tbh, deffo needs to be low to be in with a chance of pulling them off imo. They should fit i'd imagine as the twingo is a clio 2 underneath and the running gear is the same afaik (front at least, rear is using later calipers and maybe different axle?).

Looks spot on, very nice.

Will mostly likely just be condensation getting into the filler neck on that lump i'd be very surprised if the h/g is shot.

When I had mine the only requirement was for a CAT2 immobiliser. Think its the same with the meggy as I haven't had to sent the alarm cert off.

Only applied to grey imports as far as I know, so thats imported jdm stuff from japland for example.

No need to inform the insurance at all. Still a UK spec car first registered here. Just was originally allocated for cyprus or somewhere else in the EU thats RHD.

Spanish repair manuals and a very outdated parts database so its essentially useless i'm afriad. Is a shame as it'd be good to have some updated manuals and tech notes.

5.1l is official iirc, 5l will be fine though. Nice round number for once.

No you don't as its still a uk spec car, just a parrellel import as it was originally bound for some other right hand drive eu country. Ones where thatcham status doesn't apply so hence no alarm or locking nuts.

Need the plugs out to turn the engine over too which requires the upper inlet off, you can get away with doing the gasket as I changed my plugs previously without changing it and it was fine was just saying that if you wanted to be 100% perfect you should change it. And from a renault tech thats...

Think that was an opening offer?

The GSD3s on my supert's still have a decent ammount of tread on them and they must've covered 10k by now and they got plenty of full use. The fronts on the 225 seem to have lost some tread already after only being on for 4 weeks or so but thats only using fingergauge(tm) so they might not be...

Its not difficult just very very fiddly as you've got 1.5-2 inch of room to do everything in thats all, forget about torquing anything up as you just won't get a torque wrench in there. Tools can be hard for circa 50 notes off the net and are essential, the cambelt kit is £140 or so trade off...

They are a softer compound tyre so they won't last forever, what do people expect? You want tyres to last go and get some rock hard eco things that'll last 30k but you'll whinge about the grip (or distinct lack of). I've just chucked a set of assymetrics on the meggy and if the fronts see 5k...

Stick with 75w80 as spec.

Nope not that I know of. I've got some sitting in the shed that are a pretty spot on fit though, 15x7j, PCD100, ET37 with 60.1mm spigot rings.

Nothing to do with the VVT, just the cams coming into their optimum zone keep this for these occasions:

Would imagine its just like a normal one with 4 wires, two for signal, two for the heater.

They've had it for sale for ages if its that one, obviously someones running about in it or its been sold if it is.

Not a fan of the despoilered look but its still fvcking mint!

Well back street/indepedant garages don't tend to use the locking tools and as they're aren't any timing marks on a F4R lump they're very rarely timed up spot on. Needs the crank locking tool, cam locking tool and the cam pulley locking too to get it right after that level of repair. And for the...

Not too sure on the controller bit but a wideband lambda is basically a more accurate lambda sensor that can give the exact(ish) AFR (air/fuel ratio) of the mixture the engine is burning. Whereas a normal narrowband lambda can only give a rich/lean value. afaik.

Yep thats been mapped. Standard limiter when warm is 7250rpm, cold 6800rpm (and you shouldn't be hitting that one).