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No idea.
I just give it to Mike at Rentech and get him to do whatever he says needs doing every 6,000 miles.
Sorry about the lack of response, been on holiday for a week and my PDA was crap at surfing.
Lucky boy - I'd have happily driven home in the one I got to cane round Brands - very, very nice cars.
Far quicker than most people seem to think as well.
...went out for a blat this afternoon, nice roads, rear-facing camera, K-tec stealth and Yozzasport decat in all their audible glory, aided by a stripped to the metal rear interior.
Short shifting at first through 2nd/3rd/4th, then a high rev blast to the top of 3rd through the "twisties"...
I can empty a full tank of V-power in 130 miles on a trackday in my Cup, or I can make it last 400+ miles on my weekly commute if I try hard enough.
Best of both worlds IMO.
Forgot to add mine wasn't recognising throttle inputs like yours isn't as well.
It could be the damp that caused it to fail maybe?
To fix it on mine I had a new throttle body fitted...probably a bit pricey :(
I had this once before Dan, it was a dodgy airflow sensor or something in the throttle body that feeds into the plenum thing.
As the ECU can't detect any readings it hunts around at 2k rpm trying to find something. Got mine done under warranty by Mike luckily.
Gutting, hope you get it...
I run a set on my wife's Focus.
On the odd occasion that I've driven it without both her and the child seat, they seem to behave well enough when throwing it about.
Good tyres in my opinion, especially considering the price.
A well driven Valver is pretty much on par with and often quicker than a 172/182 through tighter corners but gives that all back when in a straight line.
Around Brands Indy the main straight is the only place I can make any ground on one. After that it's all I can do to keep in touch.
Is the VGA really that much better than component?
I just splashed out on a longer component lead now I've got an HDTV - but it's also got VGA input too.
Should I go get a VGA cable?
He wasn't racing, just playing. He bought it off ebay from someone who won it in a competition...got it for pennies apparently.
Right stripped out it was too...he trailered it there, only had the one seat, bare metal interior.
They only weigh something like 900kgs standard with full interior...
The only track pads I've ever tried that needed heat to bite were Tarox - and they were s***. Wore them out in 1,500 miles.
DS2500 and Pagid Blues especially, have more than enough bite.
Ooh, dragged back up again.
Just to add, since that first problem I had with them not biting, the Pagid Blues been fine ever since.
20,000 miles and 6 trackdays later and there's still about 6mm left on them as well.
Will these new fangled Carbone Lorraine ones last as long?
Mine resonates at 3k very noticeably, and less so at 2k and 4k - I quite like it :approve:
Any higher than that and I'm normally full throttle so it's rasping away anyway.
I'd say your clutch gets far more abuse when pulling away, holding the car on an incline, or particularly when crawling in traffic.
Slow moving traffic, 1st gear only, my wife sliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiips the clutch to get moving then immediately brakes to a halt behind the car in front; typical...
Normal Cup springs/dampers fitted?
No other suspension changes?
If that's the case, around corners like you've described it shouldn't be cocking a wheel.
Agree 100% - the brake pedal is the enemy of good mpg...but don't forget the forward planning though.
Like when you're coming up on a roundabout, plan your approach so that by the time you get there, the gap you saw developing on the other side is ready for you and you can drive straight on...