Search results

I'm wondering if it's pad deposits due to pads breaking down under the heat maybe? Maybe try a different pad just to be sure. Pagid RS-29 yellow are an endurance pad and they are very good. Not cheap though.

He needed to be wearing a HANS device in that thing IMO. If he put it off into the barrier he'd be in serious neck trouble.

Are they actually warped, as in have you tested the runout on them as standard and then again with a worn set? 3 hours doesn't sound like long to wear out a set of discs. How many track miles would that be?

That guide is ok apart from he used the cheap locking tools that bend. This may also help https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8a6L1Tl3iG3RWNUOFU0bWlPQkE

Remember which coil leads came from each plug too, otherwise it'll run rough. Not too difficult to work out with the oem coils as they are different lengths, so will only reach so far to each spark plug.

With the engine out it will be a piece of piss compared to working on it in the car. If you can follow instructions it's a simple process in essence, if everything is done in order and as it should be. You'll be ok.

If you start the car after you've finished and find that it is idling quite high, it means there's an air leak so you just need to make sure the inlet is bolted down properly.

Yes it's the only way to get to them. Just a case of disconnecting all the sensors that are plugged into the inlet, unbolting it and lifting it off. Be careful when bolting the inlet back on as those bolts don't need much to snap. Torque to 11Nm if you can.

They take 3.1 but you'll not get all that in as a bit of the old stuff will still be there. I've got 4 bottles of MTL for my newly rebuilt box.

So you could be a little under or over depending on how much of the old oil got drained out :tongueclosed:

I take it you still had the filler plug out though so you knew when it was at the right level?

The owner needs to have a good look at himself.... Bonnet bra :pensive:

Ahh right, it looked like this one i have. Just read that mine does have reverse polarity protection 😅

Is that one of those Powervamp ones? I have one 😊

If i was after a custom system, he would be the one to do it.

It wouldn't be cheap if you were to pay someone to do the work he's done, but in terms of chassis strengthening it is the way to go.

Have a look at @Tomotek build. That would be my ideal setup.

If not, then surely you don't need to be asking these questions...

Yeah definitely.

It would take a decent driver to reach the limit of the standard chassis i think.

Upgrading/modifying the whole chassis and suspension would be fairly costly I'd imagine.

Wonder how much it'd be for CGR to make a custom exhaust. They do some brilliant stuff.

AG calipers would look brilliant!

Yeah you can fit the optional rear back box.

Racecar.

This is the proper cup racer one, but it's mega money.

I'd wager on the diff being a good few seconds saved.

Just looked, jesus the Oreca are cheap! ~€500 for a titanium exhaust! Edit: It's stainless, made to look like titanium, but still cheap!

Yeah they do sound well.

Oreca what the 200 cup racers used?