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No need to be changing more than once a year or every 12k unless it's not a road car or highly modified.
That oil is OE oil, so completely fine to use at those intervals.
Yes, there are better oils. But the real question is - do you need them? for a daily road car, no, for a track car, probably not, for a race car then probably yes.
I've gone from using £15 a litre Castrol Edge Professional in my Volvo to £5 a litre GSF car parts oil (bought a 20l drum). Even...
As above, they are just stuck to the glass. You can pull the old one off, then clean up the excess/residue. This is the important bit - it must be fully clean otherwise the new ones won't stick.
The new seals just stick into place along the edge of the glass. No glass removal is needed.
And decent wrap will cost you near enough a respray cost - unless you are planning on one of these places that will do it for £300? If so, don't expect a great finish
Ahh yes, the good old sprint booster
"fitted a sprint booster, car feels much faster" well yes, that's bcause you now get full trottle at 50% pedal travel. Take off the sprint booster and mash your foot to the floor and you'll get the same experience!
Yep, too much scaremongering about timing belt changes on here! It really isn't a complicated job with the right tools. That's the important bit - the right Renault tools. If you don't use the tools or buy cheap ones and the timing will be out.
It'll be the same as the 197/200 I'd have thought, basically the same engine bar the blower. I have a printed/laminated copy of the official Renault guide at home that I can post to you if you struggle. Actually it would be easier to just scan and email it!
I'll come back later, if you haven't...
It's only £900 and you are worrying about the cambelt history! it's almost disposable at that sort of price.
Don't take this the wrong way, but If £900 is a lot of money to you, then I would advise you to buy something else. The RenaultSport cars aren't the cheapest of cars to run and if you...
That wood effect interior stuff is awful (sorry!) and please don't lower it 60mm. Have you checked with your insurance what effect it will have if you do decide to ruin the handling?
Why not keep it standard, build up some no claims then buy a better/nicer car instead of runing this one?
Don't worry too much about the cambelt being done at a specialist. Worse case scenario is you buy it and have the timing checked by one of the specialists and corrected if needed. Also, the dephaser only needs doing if it's making a noise. It may well be fine and won't need changing for years to...
Look in the manual, or go into Halfords/on the website.
Most auto spares places will tell you as well as online.
Any why do you have a poll with no options!?
If oil has made it's way into the coolant, doesn't that point to head gasket failure? Not sure how a ring would let oil into the water....?
I'd be tempted to pull the head off (if you have the knowledge) to identify the real problem, could turn out to be an easy/cheap fix......
So - ordered a few parts today. 2 new suspension arms (Febi/Bilstein ones), front and rear top mounts and a set of Koni STR.T dampers (orange)
Should tighten everything up nicely.
Chris
For general road use, OE stuff will be fine.
No point in the R26 rears as all you gain is some drilling/grooving. The rears only do 20-30% of the brakign so it's a pointless upgrade.
If you were going to do a bit of track work then the DS2500 would be worth it, but if not then OE all the way...