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Forget it, you'll be spending thousands to get an extra 25bhp out of that. Sell up and buy something more powerful.
you won't get 10bhp from an exhaust and filter, a map is going to get you 1 or 2 bhp at most (that's if anyone even maps them)
I think it's the intake temp that's caused the increased figure. The figures in the table bottom right are the correction figures and are used by the dyno to calculate the power. An increased IT would give a higher than normal result I believe. eg my Intake Temp was only 24 degrees which was 2...
Must have been an issue on his run only then. 14 cars ran yesterday, Most got exactly what you would expect, some down on power from what owners were expecting. I think this is the only one that got more than expected.
Some graphs have been posted in here...
I think to rollers were spot on to be honest, you've only got to look at everyone elses results to see that. If they were all a bit high I could see it being the rollers, but I think you have freak of an engine. Most 1*2's were getting the 170+ usual figures. My Volvo has had 3 runs there this...
Here's mine, need to figure out what caused power to drop off so dramatically at 5.2k it shouldn't hit peak power until about 5750-6000 so should have made more I think. Pleased with the peak torque though!
ThomasBrentnall - Me, and 2 mates will be along around 10ish (i've got a carpet being fitted first thing!) One of my mates needs to be away by 12ish, do you think she can be squeezed in? She'll be in a 1.0 Fiest ecoboost (remapped, hoping for 135-140 bhp).
Quick question - do you have projector headlights? if not, put that kit in the bin. If you do thwen carry on! lol
Sorry but can't help with the fitting.
It is, but if you use it every time you will get the issue you've been experiencing as you've said it's never properly shut down. To my knowledge there's no way round it other than a weekly proper reboot?
If you want fast boot, but don't want fast boot enabled you need an SSD! I've just built a middle of the road spec PC with an SSD with the os on. My boot time is currently <15 seconds from pushing the button to being on and ready!
So today I put a new pc together, spec is as follows:-
Intel i5 4570 3.2ghz
Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD mb
Corsair 8GB DDR3 2133MHz Vengeance
Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300 2.5inch SSD
Toshiba 2TB Internal Hard Drive
so I put it together, initially just with the SSD in. Installed windows 7 x64, all windows...
Smoke isn't normal at all, what colour is the smoke?
fuel consumption isn't the 200's best point. However yours does sound very low (23ish mpg by my math). Maybe related to the smoke?
you probably need a new thermostat. It should sit half way.
Just download TOR for Windows or a browser called Onion on iOS, or get a VPN service set up (that'll cost you though) you can bypass the restrictions then.
One thing I love about my Volvo is that the headlights are only held in by a retaining clip. 30 seconds and no tools is all that's required to have both headlights out. I was amazed!
Completely useless to you I know!
Buyer beware basically. I doubt you can prove the previous owner knew about the problem so very little you can do.
Has the garage actually done any diagnostics to try and pinpoint the problem or just told you 'compression is low, scrap the lump'.
Have they given any compression readings etc...
Firstly take the dipstick out and check the colour of the engine oil. If it's been changed recently it may be clear(ish) but if not it's usually a darker colour. See if it matches the colour of the fluid you are finding.
Smell it too, you can normally get an idea of what it is by the smell.
You aren't just paying to get the fault codes read though, you are paying for that persons expertise. Fault code reading is ony one part of diagnosing the problem, as the faults that appear on the ECU aren't always guaranteed to be the actual issue. They may well need to do further diagnostics...