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Nope.

Stock is what I'd use its cheap and very effective.

Have the head ported. (speak to ANgleworkds or AWT technologies or Yozzasport) Cams installed. (I'd preferebaly use some of angelworks as they'll be able to best sell you what you need depending on the spec you have ie stand alone ECU etc. Have the intake manifold sorted out.

It can allow rust to star idealy understeal all under the arches ever few months to ensure you've a portetive layer to replace the arches.

Check your radiator and coolent hoses.

Measure the outside of the drum mthere 3 different sizes from memory but from the outside diampter you'll be ale to work out which you want.

Very important as it will leak otherwise. £1.10 or so they are part number

I'm doing one at the moment.

On the continent I'm sure thats normal.

As per this thead http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=109205 This is for the Mk2 Clio owners only. Once you have set an airbag or pretensioner off no other airbags or pretensioners can be set off. The computer is useless the light will stay on on the dash. If you have had an airbag...

Sounds like the've messed up or are ripping you off.

UCH. Hence the cups lack.

Check your rad for stone chips also the clips on the radiator.

172 cup has a slightly different rack. They are all retrofitable though I'm sure.

Yozzasports run ning about 230~240 I think. Best ideal is to talk to BenR 260~280hp isn't impossible though he was talking 350hp I think some time. There been a 280hp N/A 172/182 engine has been done I'm sure I forget who did the car it was for racing though. Just sort the bottom end...

As per Common Clio problems http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=108607 Seat belt warning light The SERV and AIRBAG lights come on its a common problem (almost every has it) its due to the wiring of the pretensioners going to an open circuit. Fiddle with the wires under the seat...

You need to get it on a RR realy and shift points chnage with what gear your in as you want to maximimse power all the time also depends if your racing the 1/4 mile etc as sometimes it better going well out the power band rarther than change up. Changing up at maximum power isn't often the best...

The rules etc are all here for what Renault had there warenties backed up against its preferable to do more but this is what Renault used. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107873 Being as your not a member though its below. Servicing (UK only) 172/182 Normal servicing is done...

They've never made enough 172/182's to make making amnaula plus its much like the stock car so no realy point. If anyone want a 172/182 manual showing the different bits etc where they are etc PM me your address. Its a file for the phase 1 172 but the engines are much the same where bits are etc.

No way a stock valver even one with a few mods would make that sort of power 2.0 or heavily modified 1.8

Closed or open loop doens't matter the the fact Renault cut the fuel when cold to reduce emmisions.

Re: Urgent Help Needed-mot Failure - Same here any resolve? Yep the 172 does often have two some phase 1 172's only have one though. Usually a good hard driver and injector cleaner fixes them all.

Don't foreget its 137hp when new there 15 years old or so they chnage with age. You might fine its got a 2.0 bottom end as its quite a popualr modification quite a few people have unknowingly had one for free.

You realy should use multiple points makes manovering it easier and its safer.

Do you the top dead center sensor? Its between the engine and gearbox up at the top Resistance ≈760 Ω at 20 °C

Yep good idea getting a new one for the bit extra if you cna find a cheap one the ones on ebay seem to be new in many cases. Youn can buy the lifting bit seperate but when one sells giving away for free with there cranes why bother trying to buy seperate.

Just disconnect the second sensor and you'll have no problem ie don't connect the wiring up.

Doesn't matter you on't have a headgasget I've wrote the repies in your other thread bust basically For the DF027 code Check the condition and connection of the 5 track EGR solenoid valve connector (on the back of the engine on the EGR valev thingie near the turbo.) and repair it if...

Better safe than sorry I don't like electricity at the best of times. We don't seem to get one well together.

Unscrew the negative first and preferably do it one handed much safer stick the other hand in your pocket.