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Yeah that's the plug I'm thinking of mate. Some of the fan controllers screw straight into there. There's a bit of length to the wiring that's on it from memory mate, so you just connect the + and - up to it, plus your fan wires. Yes it worked very well on my car when it was fitted. It was on...

Some radiators have a temperature switch in the radiator to operate the cooling fan/ac fan. It just screws in so you could remove that if yours had one. The kenlowe bulb goes in the coolant line itself, then you put the coolant pipe over it and jubilee clip the pipe in situ. Sounds complicated...

Looks to be lowered about 40mm to me in that picture, so I'd guesstimate that your on apex springs if that was the case. They're yellow so if you see yellow, that's the answer. If you want coilovers you want to be getting some bilstein b14's. A great coilover for the road and occasional track...

This is what I've got somewhere.

Yes mate it is. There's some available now that utilise the original fan switch that's located in the rad. The kenlowe controller had a bulb that goes into the coolant line that was a capillary temp sensor. It then went to an adjustable dial that you could set the temp that you wanted the fan to...

You can buy a fan controller from the likes of kenlowe and use that to operate your cooling fan mate. From memory it comes with a manual override switch for in the car as well. Just a case of finding a + and a -. I'm assuming there's no fan fitted at all then??

I used a big digi spirit level on my garage floor to measure diagonally and it's unbelievably level. I think it was something like 0.2/0.3 across the diagonal, so pretty good.

Yeah good shout.

Yeah it'll be pretty accurate mate. The biggest issue is getting it through the wheel to sit on the disc. Then your issue is the lip on the disc to be aware of.

No point bodging if there's a simple solution to a problem! :wink: @EvoPL you'll be fine with the rivets sealing. Just put some washers on the inside to spread the load.

You could buy some clips that are called 'over centre clips' and attach them to the airbox with rivets? http://www.protex.com/toggle-latches Here's how my maxi evo Carbon airbox is held together. It's a cheap and cost effective solution.

You don't need to remove the head to do that repair work mate! That can be done in situ. Labour wise no more than 2hrs + parts cost for the helicoil or timesert. Timesert is the better of the 2, but also costs more. Any garage or engineering shop should be able to do that. You need an airline...

I work with Dunlop tracking sticks mate, so I'm not 100% sure if that's in degrees and minutes or in mm tbh. You should be able to see it, but it's hard to line it up on a Clio. You need something for your eye to line up on, and I personally find that quite difficult on a Clio. Not impossible...

That's a little bit more than not straight mate!!

Yeah definitely mate. :up:

Your as well running a magnetic sump plug as well. Once you remove it and it doesn't look like a hedgehog, it's pretty much time to put the decent oil in.

I'm on it don't worry! Not much left to do now either. Just needing time to do it.

Your welcome mate. I'll look for that selector fork at some point today. :up:

I'd imagine so yes, but the real question is, how deep are your pockets! Anything with the Renaultsport hologram on is serious coinage.

It's worth checking the power supply terminal hasn't snapped at the alternator end. Thick red wire with a ring terminal on it. They usually corrode, weaken, then snap. I had this happen on mine. Sometimes the nut for the terminal comes undone, sometimes it doesn't which means you'll need a new...

On my forged Astra turbo motor it used to drink 1ltr of oil AFTER the oil was changed, then nothing after that until it was time to change it again! Go figure?!

Yeah I agree mate, it does. The setup was originally used on Grp a 16v/williams on a similar style to this in respect of taking the air feed from the scuttle. I think the gravel spec mk2's had something similar, but don't quote me! Lol! It doesn't offend me mate! 🙈

I don't want to know what's up your pipeline if that's ok! Flol!! This is similar to what I was going to do with mine when I had the rs2, and I'm really interested to see what it does.

If it makes the numbers or shows good results you know what to do with yours!

1ltr per 1000m is actually classed as acceptable by most manufacturers mate! Lol! Another reason for the 10/60 is that's what the M cars run on, albeit castrol edge (formerly Rs), so if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for mine! Lol! Having spoken to a mate at great length, there may...

My reasoning for using it comes from a lot of engines running forged bottom ends burn off the oil like it's going out of fashion from the larger clearances. Once up to temp it's not so much of an issue. As you are finding out, forged engines like a drink.

Looks fooking awesome mate!! Looking that good it's got to work!

Dunno mate.

It'll be very much trial and error as its an unknown for if it will work or not. I was going to do something similar on mine when I was going to run my rs2, but decided on the other engine instead.

He's going to take a feed from the scuttle panel like the old 16v/williams Clio Grp a.