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Just replace all 4 mate with new ones. The issue will only come back again in a few weeks/months. Once one fails the rest start to follow suit.

Ah so it went to someone else on the forum then! I remember seeing it for sale a few weeks/months back.

Unplug it and leave the wiring mate is my advice. You stand more chance of cutting out too much otherwise. You'll only save grams from the wiring anyway.

Ah not so bad then. Might nip over and see how the new burp goes on!

They are indeed alarm sensors. I personally wouldn't cut them out, but it's your choice. Is there any reason your wanting to remove them?

No problem. Problem 1 sounds like you've damaged the release bearing in some way or another, or it's the fork not in the bearing itself. Take the rubber boot off from around the fork and take a look inside. You will need a torch, but you should be able to see. Other than that it could be the...

Top pic is speedo drive sensor wiring and the bottom one is the crank sensor.

Any local races this season?

When and where is your first race Mr Hunter?

Not all 172's take the speedo reading off the box mate. Some still take it from the abs rings as they have jc5 130's fitted. It's the later 172's though that I've seen. @Cub. has had this conversion done and I think it was @Dan@SJM that did the work.

It seals internally mate on the air filter element.

Thanks. Coming closer to being finished now.

Who invited you back?! I think points are required for your insubordination. :smilingimp: Last one ever ever mate!!!

You said you hadn't 'come across it' lol

The spline on the diff should hold it in place, but just make sure your not under it, just in case.

Yes mate that's it. Sorry we must've got our wires crossed there! Undo the bearing housing bolts and it should come free.

With all the bolts undone the housing should just come away from the block mate. Failing that, give it some encouragement with a persuader. 🔨🔨:wink:

You need to forget this style shaft now mate. This end goes on to the shaft that comes of the gearbox mate. When you remove the old section of shaft all will become clear. :up:

No problem. The part that's left needs to come off and be thrown in the bin. The bracket will be bolted up to the back of the block, then it should just slide off the splines at the gearbox end mate.

If your car is a cup then you've been given the correct driveshaft mate. It's only the full fat 172/182's that had the equal length shafts. They only reduce torque steer (minimally) so you'll be fine with the correct shaft.

@Tony Hunter @Russ Rallye @Adam G @Mini182 There's a few names mentioned to get you started mate. All good blokes with good advice.

This is now my weapon of choice tbh. It's pretty accurate as well in all fairness.

Yep very much the case. :up:

Yeah this is correct. They give you 5mm per wheel, so 10mm overall.

No mate because you won't get the same reading as if the car is on its wheels. You need the car sat under its own weight to get a correct reading.

You need the 172 items as they're longer I believe.

What was the cause of the fault? Might help another member out if you post a full explanation of the work that's been carried out to rectify the issue. :up:

Yeah pretty much identical mate. Lol ok no worries. I'll have a look in the garage for it, but it might not be until the weekend.

@172Nathan heres a link to one on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/301859711026 This is the full kit, so includes the thermostat and everything you'd need other than wiring. Failing that if you send an email to kenlowe, they should be able to supply the seal.

Well you can set the point at which your cooling fan kicks in with this. That's what the dial on top is for, plus you lock it in place with a screw. I'll see if I can find one online for you mate. Ok no worries. I'll have a look at it all and make sure it looks to be ok. I might even have the...