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Those Bodies are so sexy Garry

Two options . Subframe off or engine out . Can't see it coming out in situ with either still in . Someone will be along soon with the "I've done one and it was a c*nt of a job. Lol [emoji23]

You can see pretty much see where you are limited to where the catches will finally sit , due to limited space unless you use brackets off the original two bolts the hold down the slam panel . Note the slam panel will need removing for this to be carried out. Ph2 has a similar if not identical...

I fancy some of these @dann2707 , where from and how much please sir . And this build has been awesome , I was aware of the ecu upsets you have been having , but so glad it's all sorted ready Saturday. Deffo go for a drive m8 , see how it all is ready for mapping [emoji4] I am going to be...

Decided to go down the garage and bring back from the dead the motor that's been sitting for 34 months . Compression tests done . All ok . Then the start up , and what can I say , I'm amazed it started up first time on the button . Well pleased . I've checked the shell and it seems...

No diagram as it should only be two thick wires the same colour as on the passenger switch . 2 thick wires to motor Info of what the wires do

It's way earlier to swap the pins over on the motor . Then you'll not be messing with the wires on the interior side . If lazy mode has set in , I'd say swap pin 2 and 6 over . Confirm colours where they go through the door . Thickest wires as they carry the most current .

What switches are you operating when it works backwards up and down ? Switch on drivers door for passenger window ? Or the passengers left door switch ?

Have a little look in here Passenger window only goes down, tried almost everything https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=191&share_tid=809082&url=http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Passenger-window-only-goes-down%2C-tried-almost-everything.809082/&share_type=t

You need to have 12v at both wires at the motor when switches are at rest position . If you don't , then start tracing it back 111 is passengers window motor 113 switch for passenger on right door 114 Passengers side window switch on left door

Both the wires from the UCH to the motor are intact , as it functions downwards . IE a circuit with 2 wires only swapped by the UCH to change direction. The issue here is , either the switch doesn't tell the relay in the UCH to switch (a faulty switch ) or the UCH doesn't operate the window...

I have a Longacre one . Modded it to the OE mirror . Works well.

Sod that Daniel , just swap the wires around on the motor . That'll cure it

What belt are you using ? Once the belt is tensioned , you shouldn't be able to twist the longer length by 90 or feel any slack at all

Seems to me like either the clocks are knackered or the sensor is maybe slipping if you've got the speedo drive gearbox . What's it compare to GPS speed ?

Does look clean . Do you wish you still had the Williams ? Here's a shot of mine . Again !!! In this post . Same love it to bits

That is f**king nice [emoji1303]

Put a piece of black tape over the left ultrasonic that one is the receiver . If it sorts it , poss it's picking up something moving in the car , wind , furry dice [emoji456][emoji6] ect . Poss may need the sensors replacing if it still persists

I was going to post , it could have been battery / alternator related . Glad it's sorted [emoji1303]

Swap the resistors over and see if the fault moves to produce circuit 1

Have you put the two resistors in place across the pins ?

Second hand is the only option @DanDan172

Headlamps need a 3M correction kit clean The rear lamp is affected by another lamp that comes on at the same time , poss stop lamp brings on another . And some corrosion on a brake pipe and both front springs. . Nothing weird there at all .

Steering angle sensor messes about a lot . Get it plugged in with a code reader to get the code

Why don't you just sell them on for what you paid , and repurchase what you originally wanted

Here are my two And the second one that's off road having some work done. Make that lots of work done And it's current state Work in progress

It's gunna need a loom then , as it's got a Ph2 FBW loom and pedal in it . I'm assuming it's been swapped , or the shell is in fact a Ph2 with Ph1 bits on it

I would on OE setup , but I have RS2 so can't .

Put a new seal on it and a very small thin amount of PTFE tape on the thread . Make sure it's absolutely 100% clean and dry , tighten it up and bobs your uncle hopefully. If it still leaks then it'll be the pipe that fooked

I got loads of these clips if you want any .