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Productive day on the servo removal . Saw a post the other day regarding these being rusty due to brake fluid spillage , so I took a look at mine and wow it’s crusty and rusty lol. So spent today giving it a good clean up . Sprayed it with etch primer to begin with followed by hammerite ...

@Nafoff . I contacted Firstline armed with all the info and I had a reply to the query . Response was Good morning Jason, From the information I can get of the reg you quoted I think the cables you need are FKB2605 for the RH & FKB2606 for the LH. The FKB2605 has an inner cable length...

Ignition live power go to Pin 1 on the coil. Pin 2 all go back to the ecu

Let’s hope it gets sorted once and for all [emoji1303] and then you can move on. Great build by the way . I will take time to have a read from the beginning [emoji1303]

No , as the cable are correct it adjusts up as it should do to spec . I did read your post a saw you had excess play in adjuster due to to long a cable.

Glad I could be of some help . I had many head aches working it out . Thankfully I’m a tight cnut and didn’t want to spend out to find I would have incorrect parts . I ultimately removed them off the motor and took a gamble lol. Also one thing for the Ph1 owners to bear in mind is that...

What I ordered and fitted. So my OE part numbers were 6000 073 734 = 3335 6000 073 735 = 3334

@Nafoff . Have you seen my picture I did of the handbrake cables . I have a Ph1 Clio and I purchased First Line and fitted straight in . I know these can be an absolute ass to find the right ones . I hope this helps .

Mines running stock engine apart from 438 cams with Jenvey ITB’s and made 195 from memory . Again goes well . Maybe yours could benefit from some cams to bring it up a bit .

Well done to you . An achievement indeed . Glad you persevered and got to the end . Bet your well happy [emoji2][emoji1303]

Not just those . For the UCH to function properly , I’d be checking all those wires especially earths ect , as we all know s**t earths can cause this .

Others have said , press and hold the key fob switch while turning the ignition on . But to be honest a solid red light is coded line fault from UCH to ECU comms . So chip key is ok atm in theory

Why don’t you check all the relay outputs to the ecu and volt drop those as well .

Double check all the connections in the bay , earth on and off clean them up . I’d even go as far as remove the dash plug behind the washer pump and separate that for good measure .

Seems to me your pretty much on it . You’ve done what an auto sparks will do . If everything checks out , then it’s UCH swap with key and ecu from a donor car . A lad on FB group recently had same issue and it was the UCH . So he swapped out the bits and bingo it fired up . Maybe you need...

If you’ve a stand alone ecu , it doesn’t have immobiliser circuit in it ? So no reason why it shouldn’t run

Also have you checked pin 29 . Power to there comes from 7.5amp fuse in engine bay and also via a 5amp fuse in the side of the dash .

You need to volt drop pin 66 as that one has a tendency to rot . Thick red wire I found in a loom once .

Have you checked all necessary powers and earths at the ecu ?

Make sure the fuel tank is empty as the fuel will go off and poss mess up the pump in the tank . If you can put the car on axle stands to relax the suspension. Regular engine start ups and run till fan comes on is a good idea , but fuel will run out [emoji15].

Thanks for the link . Missed the 4u bit out lol [emoji23]

I can’t bloody find that BigRed on EBay [emoji2357]

I did also @Dr Jekyll , super helpful fella