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You need to start as you mean to go on Paul. First RS Clio map on my 172, my car the first on your rollers.

My old boy paid £300 for the front bumper, rear bumper and both OS doors respraying and a hole repairing in the rear bumper on his Mazda 6. Very similar colour to a Cup as well.

Can I have a free run when I book my cambelt and aux' belt change next month? ;) What is the cost of the cambelt and aux' belt change actually off of topic?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110113524679&rd=1&rd=1 Bid away chaps.

I wish mine was black. It looks fandabidosey. 3/4 plates should be mandatory.

The head may be warped slightly so it would be worth having that skimmed. The engine is essentially the same as that in your 1.3 Escort so you could do it yourself. Until the head is off, you won't know the reason for the failure or damaged caused. One thing I forgot to say was, get a second...

Much better cars available for the cash than a V6 although I don't think you can dispute their speed on the right day versus the good old RS 1.2 look-a-likes.

As long as the book is stamped, I can't see it being a problem in the long wrong. Initially, that will probably be the argument but in the words of Kenneth Williams, Carry on regardless. My better half had an 'R' reg' Fiesta until last year fitted with the same engine. It was on 68k and it...

I'm not sure if this helps but I measured a set of standard bolts from a 172 on a set of Turinis and there was 20mm left exposed at the back of the wheel. As to wether each has the same stud depth is a different question.

That sounds wrong. As far as I know the Endura-E (if that is the engine in question and not the 1.6 16v) is not prone to HGF. It is a horrible engine based on that of a 70's Escort but you would have thought that amount of time would allow any issues in the design to be ironed out. I would...

Because they're clueless thieves?

The rubber you speak of sounds like the boot around the gear selector on top of the gear box although I don't recall such a setup. Either way, can you clarify as to wether the visible oil is coming from the gearbox or the actual engine block. If the oil is coming from anywhere on the gearbox...

Can you not do it yourself. It shouldn't be that big a job. I doubt it would cost half of that to replace the wishbone as well. That is assuming they have a similar set up to a conventional front wheel drive car.

I wish I had left mine standard at times and I doubt I will do any more to it now. However, the only mod' I can't revert to standard is the re-map, everything else will be removed and sold. My next car will be something along the lines of and RS4/6 although a house purchase will be taking...

Andy905, check his website in his profile. Around £20-25 IIRC.

It's a 172 but I like tricking people :evil:

I did a very similar thing when changing the gearbox on my old Chavalier although I did use axel stands. I lifted the front end and placed the axel stands at the ends of the chassis rails. As I jacked the rear , the car began to move forwards as the axel stands were tipping over. I ended up...

ASK on Kippax Main Street are good for plates Jamie if you need them quickly. As for the gear stick surround, it isn't a fail point but if a tester is looking at a car with ropey areas, he is more likely to look for any hidden issues rather than judge it more by eye and not dig so deep.

Looks great. Did I pass you yesterday going onto the M62 eastbound from the A1 by Ferrybridge services? I was in a silver 172.

No need to 'chip' as in the traditional sense. A dastek would be pointless IMO as they are not a standalone ECU and have the extra cost of the hardware. Paul (RSTuning) will remap your standard ECU for around £275. You should gain around 5-8 bhp peak but a big chunk in the mid-range.

Why not clay it. The majority of that might be tar and other grime.

Air leak?

Don't bother buying a new rear mount Ad', buy a universal oval exhaust mount, remove the top half of the rubber X on the rear mount, fold the lower legs flat and cable tie the new mount in its' place. A much stronger option. As for the centre mount, if it hasn't split, again don't bother with...

No mate, another haed is always a bonus. Right, a list: 1. Len_Beach 2. Donnydog 3. Zack40

Calm it with comments like that son. It's not my fault my girl wagon is faster than your new Yaris. People who live in glass houses shouldn't throw stones :rasp:

Wouldn't the ambient temperature in Portugal be higher reducing output?

New door would be a better option. You could probably pick up a bare iceberg silver 172 door for around £100.

That definately looks as if it has popped off. Can you move the boot back towards the gear box by hand exposing the CV joint? If so, simply re-grease and have it re-sealed if the joint isn't split.

N'eh worries Edde. As I said, I'm just guaging interest at this stage. Even if I could save £25 per car if I had 5 cars, it is still a saving. Forgot to mention, this is for 172's and 182's.

The airbox will fit. It may require a phase 2/182 inlet elbow as they don't kick back in the same way a phase 1 item does. The relevant mountings may not be present either. I personally would sell the phase 2/182 airbox and find a phase 1 item as it is a better design. I have a phase 1 item...