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I've got a bluetooth adaptor and use torque on android and racechrono on windows mobile. Basically they're not very accurate at all. Theres a couple of problems, first is refresh rate. The OBD speed runs at 3-4hz so you have 0.5 seconds error already (starting and stopping). Some programs...

Janspeed with centre silencer and cat - 78dbs (tester said it sounded like a sewing machine) Janspeed with centre silencer and decat - 85/86/87 depending on which track/tester The cat makes a fair difference to the noise.

Please listen to Matt. I've also had it drilled into me by an (ex motec) lecturer and another who also happens to be the Juno founder, they know what they're talking about!

Ah ok, that makes more sense! I'd still put money on the brake pedal switch needing adjusting (I had the same problem) but it could also be an ABS sensor or ring. I think theres a guide for the brake pedal switch.

Im up for this, about time we had a nearish Leicester meet, i've not met any of you lot! 1.Jonny_rs 2.MK3 Dan 3.clio_luke 4.Andy12 5.Steve 172 6.tsdhesi (Poss) 7.NickMelson 8.beng-120 (if i still have the car, not sure if im selling it or not yet) 9.Crippin 10. Tom x2 11.Harey 12. Ian_s

As its a cup it greatly reduces the number of things that it could be, My money would be on brake pedal switch too.

Cruise or speed limiter depending on the colour

Don't bother changing them if they're only 50% worn, there should be about 5 trackdays still left in them!

Automatic headlight adjuster although you can turn the white bit to move them manually.

It should turn itself off after driving for ~20m

A lot of people just want the highest in the range.

Well the rod ends themselfs will be a little over a tenner each and take maybe 5 mins per side to fit. The tracking will need doing too.

Love the Bimarcos My Cobra Suzuka's

First one is the post cat lambda sensor. Second one is the brake pedal switch (have a look in the guides, it just needs adjusting) also the cause of the last fault.

As said above you need throttle bodies to get 200 (waits for someone to prove me wrong ;)) Oh and yes, it isn't really worth it. Do exhaust, filter, inlets and remap and just be happy with whatever it ends up with. (which will be around 173 for a good one)

Cams wont get you to 200 either.

I (and other people) use a jubilie clip, you can get them on so it doesnt catch on anything.

What made you go for the max and the yellowstuff? There are better options much talked about on here...

Americans most certainly don't use it, they use miles to their smaller gallon.

The pug will use less fuel but be really horible for such a long trip. You have cruise, you win.

I don't understand why you dont just stick a couple of 10p resistors in the plugs. I've found 3.9 ohms (0.6w)works the best.

You can use an RS tuner to see (and log) the current consumption in L/100km

They are removable, just held on by a circlip. Put the shaft in a vice and tap the joint off with a punch.

What? They are removable, I've done it to fit a CV boot.

You have omitted your location.

The OH's uses a fair bit but nowhere near that much, maybe a litre every 6 months.

Dave is right, big bit at the top, washers both sides. It wouldn't be in the guide if it was wrong.

Not necessarily, it may just be the valve in the vacuum line.

About 10mm

Im confused. Did you buy it new from henk or second hand? If second hand its quite possible it is firmware 109, this cannot be updated and so you cannot use the overrun map. If its new from fastchip and its saying its version 109 then you have a problem.