Search results

I would not waste your time with the Halfords polisher, you will produce more polishing power by hand. Rest of the process is ok, I am not a fan of the Autoglym Car Wash or the Ultra Deep Shine. Better off with the Zymol Car Wash or Meguiars gold Glass Wash if you want to get something in...

Scratch and swirl buff Ez-creme glaze M-seal x 2 Final wipe down with Synthetic quick detailer

Superb, nicely done!

He will let you get close in as payment ....

If I do have to dry a car Sonus Der Wunders or Micropak Ultra Soft Drying towels for me.

The machine polish will save you some trouble in the long term and now is an ideal time before you get it sealed up. Are you close to young Alan ? - he loves to buff ;)

Cheers. All in the prep work rather than the products IMO. Lots of people go on about the waxes, this adds maybe 10% of the overall look. For my car lots of hours on it to get it to the stage it is at, would like to think I know what I am doing though to.

Nah Paddock Green, sorry Petrol Blue is the worst.

Looks like it came out well, nice work.

SRP lays down a good base for any sealant - Would be my choice. Depending on the paint condition you may need something with some more bite before the SRP.

I don't understand ;) ...much :o

Will be fine, is safe on paintwork, rubber and plastics, you could happily use it all over the bodywork if you so wished. Poorboys Sealant works well, polish them first with some SRP if need be tho.

Just re read the thread, would not use anything bar a full wash on dirty rain watered covered car.

I use mine on the silver daily hack, but not on the black one. As long as your careful they should be safe, but there is a risk.

Needs painting then not just polishing out ?

It was, the previous owner that sold it above was also on here.

Me to, it is therapeutic lol

Just given you a proper reply above. As I said it works, but over your cars life span doing that every time you need to remove tar spots then see what happens. I won't even get onto the fact T Cut is a s**t old fashioned abrassive which installs small fine marks removing the larger one, lucky...

OCD ....

ummm ok! No just been realistic, why would you want to cut back clearcoat with heavy polishing just to remove tar ? Removing the tar is one thing removing your clearcoat at the same time each to there own. Tar spots are an above the surface defect which should removed with either a tar remover...

I would use Autoglym Engine and Machine Cleaner. It is basically a strong acid free shampoo/cleaner - paintwork friendly and won't dull the finish but will shift grime well.

http://www.renaultsport.co.uk/roadcars/heritage/clio182/data.asp The above, plus Red on the Trophys

Not that strong unfortunatley. Wonder Wheels is pretty potent as an off the shelf on, dulls the hell out of the wheel paintwork when used.

As FM says prop it open, I use a folded MF cloth over the catch. I never bother masking it up into sections to do 'show it offs' I would just break it down into 6 or 8 sections or maybe 4 if it is minor marring,

Not got round to trying it yet here. Sounds interesting though - would be good to see what it is like compared to the Engine and Machine Cleaner.

How deep ?

As above Lambswool Wash mitt.

I love mine - I don't need to dry the car at all bar the door shuts etc and the wheels and arches which I don't use water filtered water on. I only use 20 litres per wash so should last a dent amount of time.

I used to use the EX-p but have ditched sealant for the summer but have moved onto the Jeffs AGT for winter. The Onyx is a great choice.

The process used on my car for these pics www.richtreen.co.uk/images/concours/ was http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=209380 My most recent detail and the Prep for the FCS Here. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=245645 Both threads should explain the processes used.