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When we get MacPros in the next few months we will be taking the step across to InDesign when CS3 is released.
Till then still stuck in Quark which I hate. But in the end it does everything I need it to do, any manipulation, editing and vector stuff I would rather do in PS or Illustrator...
Looking forward to seeing some of the results on the whole car then.
I like the look it gives, I still don't find it as easy on or off as some products though (it is by no means hard to use but other products are even easier).
UDS shine is not as easy on or off and the SRP and can't be topped with Extra Gloss Protection either. Don't really rate the ultra deep shine myself.
As with others I recommend the 4 steps in the above post.
Was going to do this on my old 205. Never looked under at the Clio seats so not sure if they are the same, but sounds like they maybe.
I think the brass rings are called hog rings and you can buy new ones and the tool/pliers for re-attaching them from places that supply coach trimming supplies.
Try the AG SRP first and see how it goes, wither that or get some Klasse All in One.
If that is not working you may have to look into something a little more abbrassive
Autoglym Super Resin has some good chemical cleaners which work well to restore luster and colour.
When you say was white what is the problem now, greyish/ingrained grime? Oxidised finish, scratches and swirls?
AFAIK MacBooks all come only in 13 inch, the Pro then allows you to get 15 and 17.
Quickest way to check specs
http://store.apple.com/Apple/WebObjects/ukstore.woa/wa/RSLID?mco=32B42242&nclm=MacBook
Price seem's good Matt. I have a 15 inch MacBook Pro which I really like.
I think cars look great with no number plates, and if this was the case smoothed over recess would look good.
But when you have to have one and a plate will still need to be on there somewhere like in the p/shop of the silver one a few posts up - it will look shite.
If the most you have used so far is SRP you should have plenty of paint left!
If it is only minor marring something like Poorboys SSR 2, Megs 80 or Menzerna Final Finish should sort the defects before you use the SRP and EGP.
If there are marks more than likely it will take at least the SRP with a polishing pad to correct them, bear in mind you will be stripping through the EGP aswell so the added cut will help.
SRP corrects very little by PC so it may not sort all the defects anyway.
Yes polish, seal and then wax.
Good shout on the OCW.
Spray waxes/sealants such as Optimum Car Wax (OCW), Prima Hydro, or Duragloss Aquawax are all worth purchasing for times when you just want to washand dry as all can be used on the paint while it is wet from washing and removed while drying...
Applied to thickly at a guess for starters.
No problem doing the whole car and leaving it, I find this the best way when using EGP and it is what Autoglym recommend. I always leave it on for an 45 mins to an hour at least, comes of super easy when applied thinly. I have left it on over night...
We did a guide with the basics. Discusses process rather than products, but should get you started:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=148366
Looks wise 50/50 vs P21s you may see a little difference.
The 50/50 was comparable to Pinnacle Souveran in looks on Black when I did some panels half and half with each, and the Souveran has always had the edge slightly in the looks over P21s. Most of the look of these waxes is all in the prep...
All in the owners manual.
Total Mileage, Trip milage, Fuel used since last fill up, remaining fuel range, Avg MPG, Avg Speed, Cruise control or Limiter settings to name a few of the top of my head.