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Im in the 27 -28 mpg club in my 182, only seen over 30 mpg once on a long run.

I would just go with the smash it to bits with a hammer option!

I like the standard 172 alloys on Monaco Blue TBH If you really wanted a change get some standard ones done in graphite.

Agree with the drive review in part - Loads of grip, very composed and stable, but you missed one of it's main flaws IMO the silly light steering thats what killed it for me. Could never live with that. Loved the gearbox, but that didnt make up for the fact it felt slow. My thoughts after the...

On the look out for one, needs to be cheap and tatty as it will be getting a facelift and a colour change.

I will do, was to busy on Sat when flatting and polishing to take any. You would have been fine, all about taking your time and prep as you know. I am going to paint my Phase 1 172 myself when I find a suitable example.

You know it Mark ;) We did a Yamaha R1 at the weekend and it is looking good. Though I am not allowed to do anything apart from prep and polish ( the hard and important bits lol), despite wanting to play with the gun!

We are considering opening our own!

Argh right - finding a decent bodyshop anywhere is a mission.

Nice one, glad it's being sorted. Have you choose the bodyshop of your choice?

Address was wrong - http://www.dedicationtodetail.com/video.htm

The pre rinse is meant to make less chance of swirl marks being induced during the wash. The Pre rinse with a saopy shampoo is meant to take dirt of the paint as the suds slide of the car, leaving this grime on the car to rub a wash mitt against.

Scratch X is much more freindly than T Cut!

Not used that kit but have used something similar. Will deform the glass in removing the defect.

Looking good, nice work.

Great job on that bonnet, as Alan said which pads did you use?

Menzerna range is the best polish range I have used. Slightly steeper learning curve in use than some polishes, but once mastered results are spot on. Used Menzerna IP to polish a wet sanded Yamaha R1 on Saturday and it came up lovely.

Does your nail catch in it?

The inside of the outer lenses themselves are not sealed units hence there tendancy to mist up inside on damp wet days.

As above Toyos are poo in the wet, infact scrap that make that even slightly damp compared to the F1s - worth paying the extra.

Knowsit - The main reason why I left the CTR sitting there on the forecourt and went and test drove a 182 - Glad I did :approve: Growing up with French hatches the 182 was a natural progression from my 205 GTi. I found the CTR tiresome work to drive after my lazy mans 8v 205.

We updated to a Epson Sylus Photo 2100 together with the Epson RIP for it here a few years ago which seems much faster for the money than the 1270 and 1290 we had before, and great print quality. Not sure on what is the 2100 equivilent today. Not anywhere near the speed of colour laser but then...

I dont see them as essentially the same at all TBH. The Clio is a small hatch the Civic a medium sized hatch - hence the cars from different classes. They are both very different cars to drive as you post points out. LOL @ the Jealousy comments.

The Clios natural ememy is more like the 206 GTi and Bini, the CTR should be the Meggys rivial, its just the Clio can punch above it's weight and annoy Civics

Skip the T Cut at least buy something better to have a go with such as Meguiars Scratch X

I reckon neat soap and something more foamy than Maxi Suds may produce better results.

Looks a nice example. Enjoy.

I was wondering the same about fly/at the wheels thing. From what I have read about the rolling road flywheel figures they are worked out using coastdown and the wheel figures - so are just estimates. I am getting mine ran on Saturday, so like wise the comparisons will be good.

Standard one on mine

Not had mine done, hate the thought of it going back to the dealers for anything.